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1、FDRA OVERSEAS LABOR PRACTICES国外劳工惯例,2004 WORKSHOPS 2004年演讨会,Richard TurnerDeputy Chief ExecutiveSATRA Technology Centre副執行長SATRA 技術中心,Health & Safety : Best Practices健康和安全:最佳惯例,Todays talk will cover the following four broad areas:今天谈论的课题将包括以下4方面广泛的内容,Ensuring the goods you supply meet customer and
2、legal requirements确保您提供的货物达到客户和法定的要求 An over-view of restricted substances违禁品纵览 Factory Safety Issues工厂安全问题Demonstration of equipment for shop floor monitoring车间监测設备的展示,ENSURING GOODS MEET WITH COMPANY OR LEGAL REQUIREMENTS確定商品達到公司或法定的要求,DEVELOPMENT OF REQUIREMENTS需求的開發,Pressure from NGOs來自NGOs的壓力Me
3、dia scares 傳媒的恐嚇European directives 歐洲的指令Member state legislation 會員國(州)的立法,LEGISLATIVE REQUIREMENTS法規的要求,Know your market 認識你的市場EU tends to be most stringent 歐盟趨向於最嚴格EU national legislation can exceed EU directives for health and environmental protection 歐盟各國的立法可以超越歐洲指令對於健康和環境 保護的立法USA varies state
4、 to state 美國各州的聲明Copycat legislation 追隨者的立法,EFFECTS OF NON COMPLIANCE.不符合的影響,Customs restrictions 關稅的限定Legal action (Not meeting with General Product Safety Regulations or Marketing and Use directive 76/769/EEC) 合法的動作 (不符合一般產品的安全規則或市場和使用指標 76/769/EEC)Bad publicity (NGOs often target brands) 不好的宣傳 (N
5、OGs 通常目標在一些品牌)Rejection by customer 客戶的退貨,WHAT SPECIFICATION ARE YOU WORKING TO?你使用的規範為何?,Your own 你自己的 Specific customer specification 特別客戶的規範Multiple customers 多數的客戶Ad hoc 未計畫的SATRA Guidelines SATRA 的指標,CREATING YOUR OWN SPECIFICATION創立自己的規範,Include all relevant legislation 包括所有相關的立法Appropriate re
6、quirements with respect to product 與相關產品最合適的要求Mechanisms for review and updating 組織構造的回顧和更新Mechanism to ensure compliance 確保遵循的結構Clear procedures 清楚的程序SATRA can help SATRA 能夠協助,Policing and controlling a restricted substances policy調查和控制被限用物質的政策,Laboratory reports on raw materials/ finished goods 實驗
7、室對原材料/成品的報告Certificates of compliance 合格的證書Check testing 檢查測試Supplier education 供應商的教育Auditing and Quality Management 稽核和品質管理,UNDERSTANDING TEST REPORTS明瞭測試報告,Who-Accredited laboratory (ISO 17025) 誰 - 認證實驗室 (ISO 17025) How-Recognised methods (ISO, EN, BS, SATRA)orFull description of procedure 如何 - 被
8、認知的方法 (ISO, EN, BS, SATRA) 或 對流程的完整描述How much- Value 價值 多少- Units 單位-Basis 根據-Limit of detection 檢測值的限制 RequirementPass/Fail 要求 通過/失敗,TESTING RESPONSIBILITIES測試的責任,Downstream testing-final product 下游的測試 - 最終產品Upstream testing-individual materials 上游的測試 - 個別的材料,DOWNSTREAM TESTING下游的測試,For 針對Ultimate
9、control 最終的控制Takes account of contamination during manufacture 斟酌製造過程中的混淆不清Uniformity 致性Against 面對Costs located in one centre 成本放置在一個中心More difficult to rectify faults 更加困難來修正過失Separation of components 區別零配件,UPSTREAM TESTING上游的測試,For 針對 Costs spread between suppliers 成本分散在供應商之間Faults can be highligh
10、ted at raw material stage 錯誤能在原材料階段被顯示出來Ease of testing 測試容易Against 面對Non-uniform testing regimes 測試制度不統一Need for trust 需要信賴Long paper trail 大量文件的追蹤,CERTIFICATES OF COMPLIANCE合格的證書,Acceptable source (ISO 17025) 可被接受的來源 (ISO 17025)Unambiguous references 明確的參考證明Dated & valid 日期和有效日期Reliable & verifiab
11、le 可信靠的和可被查證的,CHECK TESTING檢查測試,Depends on size of range and production 依照尺碼的系列和產量的多少Rolling programme to cover all styles 進行中的計畫來包括所有的款式As data is gathered and trust develops decrease for proven suppliers possibly increase in areas where problems are highlighted 收集數據並且相信減少被認可之供應商的開發, 或許會 突顯某些部份之問題的
12、產生Suggested restricted substances/safety testing budget of 0.01% of retail value of total production 建議被限用物質/安全測試的預算約為總產量之零售值的 0.01%,AUDITING 稽核,An independent assessment of a companies management system to show that procedures etc are being followed and that quality of product is consistent and of
13、an appropriate level. It should follow a logical and often process based route through the company. 對公司管理制度的獨立評估來展示流程等有被遵循 , 並且產品的品質穩定和達到適合的水平. 必須遵照一 個合邏輯以及通常性流程為基礎的路線來貫穿全公司.It should be carried out by trained and authorised staff 必須由被訓練過和被授權的職員來進行,AUDITING稽核,Areas of interest include 重要的範圍包括 Raw ma
14、terial suppliers 原材料供應商Delivery of raw or brought in materials or products. 原材料或入庫材料或產品的交付Sub contracted work not carried out by the first tier supplier 副契約的工作不由第一列的供應商來進行The use of chemicals within the production process 製造過程中所使用的化學品,MATERIAL / PRODUCT SOURCING材料 / 產品來源,Known supplier 認識的供應商Authori
15、sed sources 被授權的來源Restricted substances specification as part of purchasing procedure 限用物質的規範說明作為採購流程的一部份Invisible Quality 品質的內在 Supplier should understand and agree penalties for products which do not meet the requirements of the specification 供應商應了解並同意對不符合規格要求之產品的罰金Education of suppliers do not as
16、sume that they understand what it is you are asking for. 教育供應商 不要認為他們了解你要的是什麼,RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES ADMINISTRATION 被限用物質 管理,Writing specification 寫下來的規範說明Contacting suppliers 聯絡供應商 Auditing suppliers response 審核供應商的回應Auditing testing laboratories 審核測試實驗室,RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES TRAINING OFERED BY SATR
17、A被限用物質 SATRA 提供的訓練,At SATRA 在 SATRAAt your premises 在你的場所For you 針對你For your suppliers 針對你的供應商 Roadshows and other SATRA seminars 發表會和其他 SATRA 的研討會Information on new legislation via SATRA Bulletin, Footwear Business International, SATRA Spotlight and website 透過 SATRA 期刊, 國際鞋業, SATRA Spotlight 等刊物和網頁
18、的新法規資訊,CONCLUSIONS 結 論,Increasing number of restricted substances 逐漸增加的被限用物質Large retailers will usually have specifications 多數的零售商將一如往常有規範說明書To demonstrate compliance test reports should be produced 應該出具符合遵循標準的測試報告Testing usually passed up the supply chain to material and component suppliers 測試通常通過
19、供應鏈到材料和零配件供應商 Verify with random check testing 隨機抽樣測試來確認Keep up to date 保持最新的消息SATRA CAN HELP SATRA 能夠協助,An Introduction to Restricted Substances (限用物質介紹)What substances are restricted(被限用之物質有哪些)Where are they found(何處含有限用物質) Why they are restricted health and environmental effects(為何這些物質被限用健康與環境的影響
20、) Applicable legislation(引用的法令)Analysing for Restricted Substances(限用物質的分析) Techniques and test methods(分析技術與測試方法)ENSURING COMPLIANCE WITH COMPANY SPECIFICATIONS(依照公司之規格) Material Sourcing(材料來源) Introduction to Specifications(規格書介紹) Testing & Due Diligence(測試及任務)Frequency of tests(測試的頻率) Certificate
21、s of compliance(認證) Understanding test reports(瞭解測試報告)Auditing, Documentation & Traceability(稽核、文件與可追溯性)SATRA services(SATRA提供的服務)Questions & Close(問題討論與研討會結果),An Introduction to Restricted Substances (限用物質介紹),RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES,What, Where, How and Why,(被限用的物質),(有哪些，在何處，如何測，為何被限用),CHROME VI,Extr
22、actable Hexavalent ChromiumChrome tanned leather (CrIII)Chrome based dyesCarcinogenEnvironmental hazardSkin irritant,六價鉻,(可被萃取出之六價鉻),鉻鞣皮（三價鉻）,(含鉻染料),(環境危害),(致癌物質),(皮膚剌激性),CHROME VI,Requirements for PPE gloves (1994)Included in revision of EN344 Safety footwear10ppm (not detected)EN344 安全鞋規範中，需小於10pp
23、m （不可被測出）)Zero tolerance in German consumer productsTest method CEN TS 14495:2003,六價鉻,(個人防護手套 1994 要求),(在德國消費者市場中，不允許六價鉻存在),CADMIUM,Stabiliser or pigments for plastics (including PVC)Environmental hazardToxic, Carcinogenic and Bioacumulative,(鎘),(塑膠中之安定劑或染料，包括PVC),(環境危害),(毒素、致癌物及生物累積性， 不易排出體外),CADMI
24、UM,European Cadmium Directive - 91/338/EECRestricts use in specific polymers/applicationsStill permitted for safety reasonsTriviality level 100ppmDutch legislation50ppm,(歐洲的鎘指令91/338/EEC),(在特定高份子或一些應用中被限制使用),(鎘),(在安全範圍內仍允許使用),(一般水準),(荷蘭法令),AZO DYES,(偶氮染料),AZO DYES,22 Banned Aromatic Amines (22種禁用芳香族
25、胺類)EC Directive 2002/61/EC(歐盟指令 2002/61/EC)11th September 2003 (2003年9月11日)Review in 2005 (2005再復審)UK Legislation Jan 2005,(偶氮染料),FORMALDEHYDE,HCHO (甲醛化學式)Textile or leather treatment (紡織或皮革處理)Skin irritant (皮膚刺激性) & IARC classified carcinogenRespiratory irritant in workers (刺激工作者呼吸道),(甲醛),FORMALDEH
26、YDE,No formal EU legislation (歐盟沒有正式立法)Labelling requirements for high concentrations (高濃度需加附籤)Wash before wearing (穿著之前先洗過)Limit of detection 20ppm (被測出之限值 20ppm)Japan law 112 has lower limit of 13ppm for childrens wear (日本法令112針對小孩子穿著之製品 限值為13ppm),(甲醛),NICKEL,Allergen (過敏原)15% Women (15% 女人)1-2%Me
27、n (increasing) (1-2%男人 增加中)EC Directive 94/27/EC (歐盟指令94/27/EC)Held in abeyance until 1999 (1999年以前暫被擱置),(鎳),NICKEL,Total nickel earring piercing posts only (總額) (僅有耳環穿刺性的材料才要)0.05% (500ppm)Migratable nickel items in prolonged intimate skin contact (可移行鎳與皮膚接觸)0.5g/cm2/weekDurability of coatings (塗佈層
28、耐久性)Three years (3年),(鎳),ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS,PVC stabilisers (PVC安定性)Anti-Microbial treatments (抗菌處理)Residues from production processes (catalysts) (製程中殘留（觸媒）)Anti-fouling compounds - boats (抗污物質船),(有機錫化合物),ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS,Measured as ppb level (parts per billion g/kg) (量測至ppb等級 g/kg)50ppb for T
29、ributyl tin (三丁基錫要50ppb)200ppb for total organotins (DBT, MBT) (總有機鍚 （DBT,MBT）要200ppb)Japan Law 112 (1973) (日本法令112)No EU legislation (anticipated) (沒有歐盟法令 （期待中）),(有機錫),Fungicide（防霉劑）Accumulates in the environment（在環境中會累積）Restricted in Germany 5ppm（在德國限制至5ppm ）EU 1000pm（歐盟1000pm ）,Pentachlorophenol
30、(PCP),PENTACHLOROPHENOL,五氯酚,五氯酚(PCP),Pentachlorophenol (PCP),Pentachlorophenol (PCP),五氯酚(PCP),PESTICIDE RESIDUES,Natural materialsVaries concerns depending on speciesNon legislative - Textile Eco-label requirement0.05ppmDifferent lists for wools, leathers and cottons etc,殺蟲劑殘留,天然材質,依種類不同而有不同的殺蟲劑,沒有法
31、令-紡織環保標章有要求,在羊毛、毛皮及棉花等項目中，各有不同列舉之殺蟲劑,PHTHALATE PLASTICISERS,Flexible PVCPotential carcinogens and endocrine disruptorsEU directive 1994/815/EEC Toys intended to be mouthed,鄰苯二甲酸類可塑劑,可曲折之PVC,有致癌及內分泌失調之潛在危險,歐盟芷另1994/815/EEC至於口中之玩具,PHTHALATE PLASTICISERS,Six named PhthalatesDEHPDi Ethyl hexyl phthalate
32、DINPDi Iso nonyl phthalateDOPDi Octyl phthalateDIDPDi Iso decyl phthalateBBPBenzyl butyl phthalateDBPDi butyl phthalateLegislation now in force for other consumer productsAwaiting decisionOther phthalate could still be used,六種有名之鄰苯二甲酸類可塑劑,其他消費品強制立法限用,等待決定,其他可塑劑仍可使用,二乙己基鄰苯二甲酸酯,鄰苯二甲酸二異壬基酯,鄰苯二甲酸二辛基酯,鄰苯
33、二甲酸二異癸基酯,鄰苯二甲酸丁基芐基酯,鄰苯二甲酸二丁酯,鄰苯二甲酸類可塑劑,NITROSAMINES,Rubber compoundsToxic- N - N = O (N-Nitrosamines)Also includes N-Nitrostable substances)EU directive 93/11/EC Rubber teats and soothersFootwear Eco-label requirement,亞硝胺,毒性,亞硝胺類化合物,包括硝胺類物質,歐盟指令93/11/EC橡膠奶嘴及安撫奶嘴,鞋類環保標章有要求此項目,橡膠混合物,LATEX PROTEINS,Dip
34、ped latex productsMedical examination glovesAllergic reaction Anaphylactic shockEN455 requires measurement of free protein levelsHSE States that 50mg/kg should not cause allergic response,乳膠蛋白質,浸泡製程之乳膠製品,醫用手套,過敏反應-中毒性休克,EN455需要量測至沒有蛋白質存在之程度,HSE 聲明 50mg/kg 不應該引起過敏反應,EXTRACTABLE HEAVY METALS,European
35、toy safety directiveExtractable in artificial salivaDue diligenceCalled up in various legislation for child care articles,可被萃取出的重金屬,歐洲的玩具安全指令,在人工口水中可被萃取出來,不同的兒童法令結合,職責,EXTRACTABLE HEAVY METALS,Eight metalsAntimony (Sb)60ppmChromium(Cr)60ppmArsenic (As)25ppmLead(Pb)90ppmBarium(Ba)1000ppmMercury(Hg)60
36、ppmCadmium(Cd)75ppmSelenium(Se)500ppmChrome tanned leather will failAlternative extraction procedureBaby harness standard (BS 6684)Higher requirement (200ppm),可被萃取出的重金屬,八大金屬,銻,砷,鋇,鎘,鉻,鉛,汞,硒,鉻鞣革將不及格,其他替代的萃取程序,嬰兒安全帶標準,較高的要求標準（200ppm）,ALLERGISING DISPERSE DYES,Dyes implicated in contact dermatitis in c
37、onsumersDyes for synthetic textiles Polyester, polyamide and acetateCIDisperse Blue1CIDisperse Yellow 3 CIDisperse Blue3 CIDisperse Yellow 9CIDisperse Blue7 CIDisperse Yellow 39 CIDisperse Blue26 CIDisperse Yellow 49CIDisperse Blue35CIDisperse Orange1 CIDisperse Blue102CIDisperse Orange 37CIDisperse
38、 Blue106 CIDisperse Orange 76CIDisperse Blue124CIDisperse Red1 CIDisperse Orange3CIDisperse Red 11CIDisperse Yellow1 CIDisperse Red 17,具過敏性的分散染料,導致消費者接觸性皮膚炎之染料,合成紡織物之染料-聚酯，尼龍及醋酸纖維,分散性染料,BROMINATED FLAME RETARDANTS,Flame retardants for furnishings BioacumulativePENTA and OCTA BDE likely to be restric
39、tedDECA BDE Confirmed as acceptableAlternative systems being developed,溴化物防燃劑,家具防燃,體內堆積,含五及八個之溴化物防燃劑很可能被限用,取代用之系統正在開發中,ALKYL PHENOL ETHOXYLATES (APES),Wetting agents and detergents for textile industryPersistent environmental pollutantsEndocrine disruptor內分泌失調Skin and respiratory irritantEuropean Ba
40、n 2003/53/EC Jan 2005 (NP & NPE),壬基苯酚（APES）類界面活性劑,紡織工業中之清潔劑、濕潤劑,永久性之環境污染,皮膚及呼吸道刺激,FACTORY SAFETY ISSUES,工厂安全问题,V.O.C.,Volatile Organic Compound,Organic - must contain Carbon,Organic compound - chemical compound containing carbon combined with hydrogen and other elements (e.g. oxygen and halogens suc
41、h as chlorine),揮發性的有機合成物,有機的 必須是含有碳,Volatile - evaporates or changes from liquid to gaseous phase,有機合成物 化學合成物含有碳元素結合氫元素和其他的元素 (例如. 氧和鹵素-例如氯),揮發性的 蒸發或從液體改變為氣體的過程,Organic compounds can be:有機合成物會是:,Mainly concerned with:主要有關的為:Ketones酮 Esters 酯 Alcohols 醇Polyols 聚醇 Benzene derivatives苯的衍生物,Straight or
42、open chain structure垂直的或開放鏈的構造,Aliphatic脂肪族,Ring structure (Benzene ring)環狀的構造 (苯環),Aromatic芳香族,This will affect properties, requirements, reactivity, etc.這些將會影響到功能性,必要條件和反應等等,Acetone or Propanone丙酮MEK - Methyl Ethyl KetoneMEK - 丁酮Ethyl Alcohol (note confusion between methanol and meths)乙醇 (注意酒精和變性酒
43、精之間的混淆)Iso Propyl Alcohol異丙醇Ethyl Acetate已基醋酸鹽Polyethylene Glycol聚乙烯甘醇,Dichloromethane - Toluene - Xylene - Petroleum Ether (Spirit)二氯甲烷 甲苯 二甲苯 石油醚 (酒精),Examples are:例如:,Solvent Exposure溶劑的暴露,Minimise solvent exposure使溶劑的暴露減至最低Use water based adhesives where possible盡可能的使用水性膠Non-solvent surface prep
44、aration無溶劑的表面準備工作 W/based detergents with ultrasound PVC利用超音波的水性 清潔劑PVCElectrochemical oxidation Rubber電化學的氧化 橡膠Cryoblasting PU極低溫爆破處理 PUFlame discharge (ionisation) EVAFlame discharge (電離) EVA,Solvent Free and other systems不含溶劑以及其他系統,Water based水性Hot melt熱熔Reactive活化Cyanoacrylate快速粘著劑,Abatement減少Ca
45、talytic combustion催化式排氣淨化裝置Biotreatment生物化學處理,Solvent Exposure溶劑的暴露,Ensure adequate extraction確定正確的排出Downdraught is most efficient向下排出最有效率Balance air flow within system平衡空氣流動的系統Engineer processes correctly操作程序正確Storage containers存放的容器Work within extraction area在有氣體排出設備的區域工作,Recommended levels 建議程度,S
46、olvents/VOCs溶劑/揮發性的有機合成物,M.E.L.,Maximum 最大的,Exposure 暴露,Limit 極限,Aim for 50% of limit目標為 50% 的限制,Recommended levels.Continued建議程度.繼續,O.E.S.,Occupational工作的Exposure暴露Standard標準,Values set for LONG and short term exposure對於長期和短期暴露的評價Short term - 10 minutes 短期 - 10 分鐘Long term - 8 hour time weighted av
47、erage長期 平均以8小時來檢測,Usually go for Long Term通常指長期,OES/MEL 工作的暴露標準/最大的暴露限制,Acetone丙酮750 ppm百萬分之一Ethyl Acetate乙酸乙酯 400MEK丁酮200THF四氫夫喃100Toluene甲苯50n-Hexane正己烷 20(Ethanol乙醇 1000),Masks and respirators 面具和口罩 EN 149 FFP1S, FFP2SEN 450, VOC 28 dayEN 405:1993 FFA1P2 (SL),EQUIPMENT DEMONSTRATION,設备展示,Workplac
48、e Extraction 工作場所的氣體排出,L E V,Local空間的 Exhaust排出 Ventilation通風設備,Down-draught is best向下排出為最佳,Capture Velocity (C.V.)吸收速率,Extraction Velocity (E.V.) 排出速率,Workplace extractioncontinued工作場所的氣體排出繼續,C.V. in metres per second (at opening)吸收速率為公尺/每秒 (開放時),Cementing benches貼合台0.3 to 0.5Drying cabinets 乾燥箱0.1
49、 to 0.2Spray booths噴台1.0 to 2.5Roughing & Scouring打粗和打磨 min 2.5,Smoke test煙霧測試Check dust bags, accumulations and blockages & joints and leaks檢查集塵袋 - 累積以及袋口的緊密和接合和裂縫,Solvent Exposure溶劑的暴露,EQUIPMENT DEMONSTRATION,設备展示,Personal Protective Equipment個人防護裝備,This is the last line of defence這是防禦的最後一道線Ensure
50、 that correct types of mask are used確定使用正確類型的面具Replace masks and respirator filters regularly經常更換面具和口罩的濾網,Solvent Exposure溶劑的暴露,Ensure all operations are considered for example shoe box assembly貼確定所有的操作都有被考慮 例如鞋盒的合Daily adhesive store and mixing room must be well ventilated and carry minimal stock每日
