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1、Chen Li-naWuhan University of Technology 2012年4月17日,中国传统文化旗袍,The Chinese traditional culture Cheongsam,contents,The definition of cheongsam The origin of cheongsam The evolution of cheongsamThe structure of cheongsamRepresentative figuresMy personal opinions on cheongsamPictures appreciating,The def
2、inition（定义）,The Qi Pao or Chi-Pao,also known as the cheongsam or mandarin gown(长袍)；A body-hugging(紧身的)one-piece(连衣裙)Chinese dress；The English vocabulary cheongsam comes from the Cantonese(广东话).It is known in Mandarin Chinese（普通话）as the qpo in Beijing and Shanghai.,The Cheongsam（旗袍）came from the Manc
3、hus（满族人）who grew out of（产生于）ancient Nuzhen tribes（女真部落）.In the early 17th century,Nurhachi（努尔哈赤）,a great political and military strategist,unified the various Nuzhen tribes and set up the Eight Banners System（八旗制度）.Over the years,a collarless（无领）,tubeshaped gown was developed,which was worn by both
4、men and women.That is the embryo（胚胎）of the Qipao.The dress is called Qipao in Chinese or translated as“banner gown（旗服）,for it came from the people who lived under the Banner System.,The origin（起源）,Wide and loose Cover bodyA-line,Why call Qipao china dress,Qipao,which is famous with its harmony and u
5、nity,is known as the representative of the Chinese dress culture.It shows the elegant temperament（优雅气质）of Chinese women,demonstrates the culture(文化)and virtues（美德）of our nation.It creates an impression of simplicity and quiet,charm,elegance and neatness.Its a magnificent rainbow of the human culture
6、.,The evolution（历史沿革）,1920s,1930s,1940s,The distinction(区别),Qing:broad,flat,long to feet,silk.Rep:shaped waist.,Qing:use brocade(织锦)or jacquard(提花织物).Rep:printed fabric(印花织物),simplicity.,Qing dynasty,Republic of China,Frog 盘扣,The structure,立领,襟,衩,刺绣,Mandarin collar 立领,Lapel/front of a garment襟,Openi
7、ngs 衩,embroidery刺绣,The style(样式),Chi-pao has many styles,and the change is mainly based on sleeves,Jin,collar,openings,and the length of Cheongsam.Sleeves（袖子）:wide sleeves,narrow and long sleeves,middle sleeves,short sleeves or sleeveless.Jin（襟）:round Jin,straight Jin,slanting Jin(斜襟),double Jin（双襟）
8、,Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）,and so on.Collar(领):high collar,low collar，or collarless.Openings（开衩）:high openings,low openings,no opening,long sleeves,short sleeves,sleeveless.,如意襟 琵琶襟 斜襟 双襟,高领,低领,无领,高开衩 低开衩,The factions(派别),The Beijing style,with red-tapism,appears reserved and concise 京派风格则带有官派作风，显得矜持凝练；Shanghai
9、 style with a characterization of absorbing the West Arts is up-to-date,flexible and has a strong business atmosphere.海派风格以吸收西艺为特点，标新且灵活多样，商业气息浓厚。,京派,海派,Representative figures,张爱玲 Eileen Chang(1920-1995)A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam.Life is a colorful gown,covered with lice.生命是一袭华美的袍子
10、，上面 爬 满了虱子。,衣服是一种言语，随身带着一种袖珍戏剧贴身的环境那就是衣服，我们各人住在各人的衣服里,She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.,邓丽君,Where there are Chinese there is her voice,she really made the beauty of the cheongsam,cheongsam accomplished her legend.有华人的地方就有邓丽君的歌声，她成全了旗袍的美丽，旗袍成就了她的传奇。,In the film In the Mood for Lov
11、e（似水年华），Maggie Cheung（张曼玉）change more than 23 sets of qipao,after the movie release,It set off a rush of“cheongsam hot(旗袍热).Cant it arouse our deeply thinking about the cultural change of cheongsam?,Cheongsam reflects the elegant charm of oriental women,My personal opinions on qipao,The cheongsam,as
12、 a dazzling exotic flower in Chinas national apparel（服装）,will not only exist in the future but also continue to be in full bloom together with the wonderful garments in the world，because the unique beauty（美丽）,demeanor（风度）,disposition（性情）and nice feelings（美好感觉）for life it has brought to wearers can n
13、ot be replaced by any other garments.I believe that the cheongsams,the Chinese national garments,will develop well and stand in the peak of the world clothing（屹立于世界服装的顶峰）in the future.Chinese Chi-pao shouldnt be forgotten by contemporary girls（当代女孩）.,Pictures appreciating,玉脂白,Expo(展览会)2010 Shanghai China,立领采用中式旗袍的演变，既有中国文化含义的诠释又融入了国际时尚化的设计手法。,Cheongsam for Miss Manners,宝蓝,Thanks for your attention!,
