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1、,Luxury In,China:,Goldmine or,Minefield?,奢侈品在中国：金矿还是雷区？,i.Setting the Scene,Some Facts&Figures,绪论：事实与数据,ii.What Luxury Means in China,奢侈品在中国的意涵,iii.The Cultural Context,文化背景,iv.A Simple Segmentation,Key Implications,简单的市场细分及关键性推论,v.Finishing Tips,忠告和小贴士,Luxury brands in China today have,a problem.,奢
2、侈品品牌在中国面临重大问题。,Its a tangled glob of glitter!,纷繁闪耀却着实让人眼花！,Brand Differentiation,is in its Infancy,品牌区分仍在婴儿期,Brand Personalities are Not Perceived Clearly,品牌个性没有被消费者清楚地感知,Consumer Differentiation of Luxury Automobiles:Anyone can still beanything differentiation still minimal.,高级轿车的消费者区分度：品牌之间相互混淆区分度
3、非常低,Source:TNS,Luxury Brands and Middle Class Chinese,Online Survey,November 2006.,If you are not the No.1 brand,evenif you are No.2 or No.3,the oddsare your fingers will be burned,“如果你不是排行第一的品牌，即使你已经排行第二或第三，也很有可能吃到苦头”,-Ivan Kwok,Boston Consulting Group,Hong Kong,As a luxury market,因为奢侈品市场,Its,huge,
4、大得惊人cluttered,混乱不堪Uneducated,and,知识匮乏“slow”并且 发展缓慢,And yet the facts,are exciting,但是一些事实却振奋人心,rd,largest consumer of luxury goods in the world,(after Japan and the US),继日美之后的全球第三大消费群,Source:KPMG 2006,Chinese Millionaires Today*今日中国的百万富豪,*USD 美元,Source:Merrill Lynch,Wealth Report,2006,Chinese Who Can
5、 Afford To Buy Luxury Brands,(expected to grow to 250m by 2010),买得起奢侈品的中国人（预计到2010年将增至2.5亿）,Source:China Association of Branding Strategy,quoted in China:The New Lap of Luxury,Ernst and Young,2005,This is the,这个市场是,唯一,Market Where Men Consume Much More,Luxury than Women,男人买奢侈品比女人多得多的市场,Source:Merril
6、l Lynch,Wealth Report,2006,最年轻的,Luxury Market in the World,奢侈品市场,Source:Merrill Lynch,Wealth Report,2006,1,2,3,4,5,The Richest Men in China中国财富榜,RANK,NAMEHuang GuangyuYan JieheTimothy Chen TianqiaoWilliam Ding LeiXu Rongmao,WEALTH1.70 billion1.50 billion1.45 billion1.25 billion1.20 billion,AGE364532
7、3455,3 out of 5 are in their 30s前5位中有3人才三十多岁Source:Hurun Report,2006,Average Age of Richest Men最富有富豪的平均年龄,Europe欧洲60,China中国47Source:Merrill Lynch,Wealth Report,2006,China is at the Tipping Pointof the Luxury Explosion中国正位于奢侈品大爆炸的引爆点,Stage 1,Stage 2,Stage 3,Stage 4,Stage 5,Subjugation start of money
8、 show off,fit in,way of life,贫乏,开始有钱,炫耀 融入 生活方式日本 JAPAN香港 HONG KONG,SINGAPORE 新加坡,台湾 TAIWAN,S KOREA 南韩中国 CHINAINDIASource:The Spread of Luxury Model,The Cult of the Luxury Brand:Inside Asias LoveAffair with Luxury,London,2006,ii.So What Does Luxury,Mean to the Chinese?,那么奢侈品对中国意味着什么？,Luxury in China
9、,isnt new,在中国，奢侈品并非,新兴事物,Since ancient times,precious materialsand objects have been used to signify,status,在古代，珍稀的原料和物品就被用来象征,地位和身份,Flashy Luxury is still used as a primaryMarker of Status浮华的奢侈品在今天仍被用来主要的身份象征,917,2007,Luxury in China TodayPrimarily MakesSocial Statements在中国，奢侈品首先、并且最重要的是被用来作出陈述SIGN
10、符号,Signifier能指,Signified所指,(SIGN)符号Luxury Consumptionof Diamonds奢侈品钻石消费,(Signifier)能指,(Signified)所指MyHusbandis Rich我的老公是有钱人,(SIGN)符号Luxury Consumptionof Cognac奢侈品白兰地消费,(Signifier)能指,(Signified)所指Werethe elite我们是精英,(SIGN)符号Luxury Consumptionof Watches奢侈品手表消费,(Signifier)能指,(Signified)所指Imsophisticated
11、我够深度,Luxury in China isfundamentally different,from in the West,奢侈品在中国与在西方出发点不同,Internal,内在的,External,外在的,Cross-Category Learnings:Shower Gel跨品类：沐浴乳,Europe欧洲Indulgent Experience纵容自我Joy of Showering沐浴的乐趣Fa,Clairol花，伊卡璐(Herbals 草本,Fragrances芬芳),Asia/China亚洲/中国Good for skin肌肤健康Beautiful skin美丽的肌肤Dove,O
12、lay多芬，玉兰油(Moisturizing Cream润肤乳,Milk牛奶),Maslows Hierarchy of Needs and its Asian Equivalent马斯洛需求层次论及其亚洲对应,WestSelf-Actualization自我实现需求Prestige尊严需求Belonging感情和归属上的需求Safety 安全需求Physiological生理需求,Asia/ChinaIconicStatus被崇拜的需求Admiration被仰慕的需求Affiliation情感依系需求Safety 安全需求Physiological生理需求,Source:Consumer B
13、ehaviour in Asia,Hellmut Shutte with Deanna Ciarlante,Macmillan Business,1998,各个国家看待奢侈品的态度炫耀懂行（身份地位）维持懂行（乐趣）,外在动力内在动力,炫耀（身份地位）转变低调（自信）,The Chinese Love Luxury喜爱奢侈品的中国人,think luxurybrands denoteSuccess认为奢侈品意味着成功,think luxurybrands denoteSuperficiality认为奢侈品意味着肤浅,Source:TNS,Luxury Brands and Middle Cla
14、ss Chinese,Online Survey,November 2006.,And theyll pay a premium for public consumption他们愿意为“露眼”的物品付出更多local brand technology,Vs.Vs.,in-home本土品牌家里的科技产品lower pricedice-cream in-home低价产品家中食用的冰淇淋,33,12,7,Cross-Category Learnings:Beer跨品类：啤酒Penetration(%)across consumption location(Beijing)不同消费场所的渗透率（北京）
15、,Yanjing 燕京Entertainment Outlet 娱乐场所 20Premium Restaurant 高级饭店 10General Restaurant 普通饭店 83,Budweiser 百威,Home,家,76,-,Brand imagery 品牌形象,Budweiser 百威 Zhujiang 珠江,Suitable to be consumed in a nightclub适合在夜总会饮用Suitable to be consumed with friends适合与朋友分享Suitable to be consumed at home适合在家里饮用,12-1-7,-170
16、14,Luxury:theres no point,having itunless theres a,pay-off,奢侈品：如果没有用处，就没有意义去购买它,The Chinese relationshipwith luxury at the momentis purely functional,not yet,emotional,“现阶段奢侈品对中国人的关系仅仅是,功能性而非情感性的”,-Former Marketing Manager,Chanel,China,Thats why thevisual nature,of a brand is soimportant,因此，,一个品牌的,视
17、觉特质就非常重要,aside number one,副题一,On Visual Culture关于视觉文化,From childhood onwards,theChinese mindset is trained toappreciate the nuances of,visual symbols as cognitive aids,从孩提时代开始，中国人的思维模式,便经过训练以鉴赏作为认知辅助的视觉符号的微妙之处,As a result,when it comes to brands,theChinese are some of the most visually,tuned-in cons
18、umers in the world,因此，当提到品牌的时候，,中国人是世界上视觉最敏感,的消费者,We all know logos areimportant here,我们都知道Logo在中国很重要,The logofication of bags wasthe single most important,factor in spreading the luxurybrand mania in Asia,“包袋的Logo化是在亚洲传播奢侈品狂热的首要因素”,-Radha Chadha and Paul Husband,The Cult of theLuxury Brand:Inside A
19、sias Love Affair with Luxury,London,2006,But Why?,但原因何在？,1,Acronyms and Symbols,help to,make sense,of the big,confusing,jumble of English brand names,首字母缩写和符号帮助消费者理,解,复杂难懂的外文名,Pronounceable,易读,Memorable,易记,2,They have the benefit of instantrecognition the all-important,visual projection,of status,它们
20、能被快速识别非常重要的,对身份地位的视觉表现,But Now但如今,Understatement is startingto matter more and more不张扬的低调开始变得越发重要,There are other ways too,for a brand to visuallyestablish its uniqueness,对品牌而言也有其他方式在视觉上建立它的,独特性,Symbol as logo,符号作为品牌标记,Colour,颜色,visualtexture“视觉”纹理,Shape,形状,distinctive,add-ons,别致配件,Detail,细节,iii.The
21、 Cultural Context,文化背景,The Confucian Conflict:RegimentationVs.,Ambition,儒家文化的内在冲突：,等级社会 Vs.个人,抱负,Regimentation等级,Ambition抱负,Order 秩序,Tradition 传统,精力,Humility 谦卑,Internationalism,Chineseness 中国,Preserving Face,留面子,Rules 规则 Show 炫耀 Drive 动力Respect 尊敬 Pride 骄傲 Quirkiness 离奇Harmony 和谐 Rule-breakingHerit
22、age 传统 Innovation 打破传统Discretion 谨慎 Vs 创新 Energy国际化 Sex AppealIrreverence 对异性的吸引力不虔敬Hierarchy Ego,等级森严,自我,This means这意味着,wanting tofit inand respect therules of society想要适应和尊重社会规则,but alsostand outanddemonstrateyour success但也想引人注目并展示自己的成功,The use of Luxury today still,Signifies Status,in this deeply
23、 structured and rigidly hierarchical society,奢侈品在今天,在这个等级森严的社会中,仍被用来象征身份和地位,Equally importantly,Luxury Brands today,also help you,get ahead,同样重要的是，奢侈品在今天也能保证你,获得成功,Luxury inChinaIs在中国,奢侈品是一个,工具,atool,HSBC creating roads for you,Bank of Communications opening doors for you,China Minsheng Bank be the
24、centre of attraction,Ballantines lubricating the corporate-success lifestyle,Within this context,Luxury Brands need to be Enablers,在这种情况下，奢侈品牌需要扮演成就者的角色,iv.A Simple Segmentation,简单的市场细分,Understanding the Core Conflict through Luxury,Buyers in China通过中国的奢侈品买家来理解这一核心冲突,The,Established,功成名就者,New Luxury
25、,新贵,Independent Women,独立女性,Youth,青年,Women,The Established,功成名就者,IndependentNew Luxury,新贵 独立女性,Youth,青年,*Note:These are qualitative estimates only,1,The Established,功成名就者,I need to demonstrate thatI belong at the topbut there are always young upstartsangling for my position“我要证明自己位于巅峰，但总有新人觊觎我的地位”Key
26、 Implication?关键性推论？,Luxury should be about Connoisseurship and Mastery奢侈品事关鉴赏力和控制力,-,-,-,What does luxury mean,to them?,奢侈品对他们意味,着什么？,It reflects knowledge and,sophistication,-它反映出学问和练达,It shows an understanding of the,finest in all things,-它反映出对一切最精美事物,的理解,It is a way of exerting power and,control,
27、-它是施展权力和控制的方式,Lexus At the Pinnacle(not dynamic enough),Cadillac Ultimate Control,Royal Salute Competitive Mastery,Cadillac Crafted Connoisseurship,Hennessey XO Timeless Connoisseurship,Breitling and Bentley Celebration of Perfection,Chivas 18 Indulgent Connoisseurship,By the way,this is also the se
28、gment most likely,to be indulging their wives(tai tais),and mistresses(er nais),顺便一提，这个群体也是最宠爱,他们的太太和二奶的消费者,aside number two,副题二,On Madame Maintenance,关于太太的供养,After the male-skewed top,segment,the er nais of China havebeen the second major forceresponsible for the growth ofluxury in China,“继最高层的男性向消
29、费群体之后，中国的二奶们已经成为了中国奢侈品发展的第二大生力军”,-Radha Chadha and Paul Husband,The Cult of the Luxury Brand:Inside,Asias Love Affair with Luxury,London,2006,Luxury consumption amongsecond wives and mistresses ishighly competitivebrands,become a symbol of power,tobe wielded over a time-sharing husband or lover,二奶和情
30、妇中的奢侈品消费非常有竞争力品牌在情夫和爱人手中成为了权力的象征,-Radha Chadha and Paul Husband,The Cult of the Luxury Brand:Inside,Asias Love Affair with Luxury,London,2006,The kinds of brands a man willbuy for his er nai are completelydifferent from what hell buy hiswife theyll be much flashier,sexier,男人为自己的妻子和自己的二奶所买得品牌完全不同给二奶的
31、更招摇、更性感,-Marketing Manager,top five international,luxury label,Shanghai,2,NewLuxury新贵,I need to move up the hierarchy but myambitions cant be too blatant“我想要攀登社会阶梯，但是我的野心不可过于显眼”Key Implication?关键性推论,Luxury should help me Shine,but through Substance奢侈品应该帮助我更耀眼，但是必须有真材实料,-,-,-,What does luxury,mean to
32、 them?,对他们而言，奢侈品意味着什么？,an important way of demonstrating,progress,-表现成绩的重要方式,reflects balanced discernment in other,aspects of life,-反映出生活不同层面的眼光,a reassurance that new money doesnt,have to be uncouth/tasteless,-新富并非都缺乏品味,BMW ii respectful progress,BMW I personal elegance,personal substance,Martell
33、XO achievement through substance,Tag Heuer achievement,through inner mettle,豪雅表：大气魄成就大事业,Hennessey VSOP unleashed personal creativity,X Drive inner spirit of adventure,Ford Mondeo ambitious aspiration,Ford Mondeo achievement despite rebellion,Dunhill My Style asAchievement,登喜路 符合我成就的“我的格,调”,Both the
34、se male segments tend tobe heavily involved in the Chinese,practise of business gifting,以上两个男性群体与中国人的,“送礼”习惯关系密切,aside number three,副题三,On Business Gifting,关于“送礼”,Guanxi is the single biggest factor for spurring,the growth of the luxury market in China,“关系是刺激中国奢侈品市场发展的,最重要因素”,-Radha Chadha and Paul
35、Husband,The Cult of the Luxury Brand:,Inside Asias Love Affair with Luxury,London,2006,Guanxi,关系 Confucian heritage,dictates that the,individuals positionis determined bytheir external,relationships withsociety,儒家文化规定个人的位置是由他们与社会的外在关系来决定的,Guanxi in modern China is a system of,networking that manages
36、 these relationships,through reciprocal favours,rewards and,recommendations for,business and personal gain,在当代中国，关系是一个人际网络系统，它通过互惠互助、奖赏和荐举来管,理这些关系,Grey money is the perfect amniotic fluidfor any luxury brand market to develop in,“灰色资产是奢侈品市场发展的最,佳温床”,-Radha Chadha and Paul Husband,The Cult of the Lux
37、ury Brand:,Inside Asias Love Affair with Luxury,London,2006,Business gifting counts for around,商务送礼占了,of Chinese Luxury Consumption today,中国奢侈品消费,-Radha Chadha and Paul Husband,The Cult of the Luxury Brand:,Inside Asias Love Affair with Luxury,London,2006,In our shops,you will often see two guys,sho
38、pping one guy choosing products,theother will just sit and read,and then whenthe things are being wrapped up,he willcome and pay.You bring your businesscontact to the shop,its not as blatant asa red envelope with cash,but you,basically say,let me buy you a jacket,“在我们的店里，你经常会看见两个男人一起购物一个男人挑选商品，另一个就坐
39、在一旁，当店员包裹完成后，他就会过来买单。把商务伙伴带到店里买东西比直接送红包要低调许多。但基本上会说，让我为你买件外套吧。”,-Tim King,Managing Director,Richemont Luxury Asia,Pacific,Alfred Dunhill division,classic,giftable items,will always,sell wellin China,经久不衰的送礼佳品在中国总,是卖得很好,3,Independent,Women,独立女性,I want to advance as a modern woman,but as a Chinesewoma
40、n I cant sacrifice my gentle femininity作为现代女性，我渴望成功，但是作为中国女性，我需要保持温柔娴淑Key Implication?关键性推论,Luxury should help me Sparkle,not Shine奢侈品让我更闪耀，却不能太刺眼,-,-,-,What does luxury,mean to them?,奢侈品对他们意味,着什么？,a reflection of modernity,refinement,and good taste-时髦、优雅和品位的反映,allows me to say I mean business,witho
41、ut having to say it-用无声的语言告诉别人我是认真的,opens doors without aggression,-温柔地推开机会之门,Dior Jadore sexy self-knowledge,DTC total control with total elegance,Hugo Femme femininity within,Dior Rouge equal,yet unmistakeably feminine,DTC unintentional sparkle,Longines uncompromising feminine elegance,4,Youth,青年,
42、关系,I want to be in but I dont have the means yet我想要紧跟潮流，却还欠东风,Knowledge知识,ConnectionsMoney金钱Key Implication?,关键性推论Luxury should be Accessible奢侈品也该触手可及,-,-,-,What does luxury,mean to them?,奢侈品对他们意味着,什么？,reflects savviness and,connectedness-反映我很懂行，与世界接轨,helps express that I have my sights,set high-帮助表
43、达我的眼界很高,gets me noticed by the right people,-让我被适当的人注意到,I know girls from very modest backgrounds in China who will goto Hong Kong to buy their luxury bags theyll hole up 4 or 5 to ahotel room,carrying a stock of instant noodles with them for thewhole trip,and then they will return to China with 4 o
44、r 5 LouisVuitton or Gucci bags and no more savings.This is the state of,luxury in China today,“我认识一些出身一般的中国女孩，她们到香港,旅游总是四五个人窝在一间宾馆房间里，旅程中只靠速食面过活。然后，她们带回中国的是四、五个路易威登或古姿的包袋，一个子儿都,不剩。这就是奢侈品在中国的现状。,-Wendy Zhou,former Brand Manager,Davidoff,China,22-27岁中国年轻中：of Chinese aged 22-27 spendtheir entire months
45、 salaryevery month每月必将工资,花光光的占36%,of Chinese aged 22-27 spend,more than they earn入不敷出的占15%Source:http:/,Youth Market:A Huge Opportunity,年轻人的市场蕴含机会无数,But Few Are Doing it Well但能很好把握的人不多,Hugo barriers are inconsequential,Hugo personal style,born of personal choice,Tag Heuer aspire to,the top,Omega acc
46、essorize your modernity(ballet),Miu Miu accessorize your modernity(clubbing),the super-rich*only count for,less than 0.02%,of the population,超级富豪不超过总人口的0.02%,Staying accessible is crucialin such a young and upwardly mobile market,“避免高不可攀”对于一个年轻并向上发展的市场来说,至关重要,*USD millionaires,Affordable Access能够承受的
47、物品,Herms in China now do bracelets and mobile,phone accessories,爱玛仕在中国开始经营手镯和手机链,Yohji Yamamoto sell out of leatherorganizers,belts,coin purses,山本耀司出品皮夹，腰带，硬币袋,And Gucci in Shanghai is amecca of accessories,古姿上海专卖店更如同配件天堂,Dont only target high net worth individuals every middle,class Chinese will sa
48、ve money to pay for high-priced items,“不要仅仅把高收入的个人作为目标在中国，每一个,中产阶级者都愿意为昂贵的物品攒钱。,-Nanda Griffioen,Consumer Planning Director,Diageo China,vi.Three More Tips,三个小贴士,Come in Big,以大取胜,Educate,教育,Innovate,创新,Come in Big,以大取胜,but protect your exclusivity,但需保持你的独特性,Visibility is Crucial,视觉辨别度非常重要,A luxury b
49、rand in China represents middle class,aspirations so you cant afford to be too hidden,“奢侈品在中国代表着中产阶级的渴求，所以你,绝不能藏得太深”,-Nigel Luk,MD,Cartier,China,Internationalism Rules,国际性,What they are buying isinternational success.Never,dilute your Western,credentials他们所购买的是国际性的成功。决不要放,低你的西方身价。,-Radha Chadha and
50、PaulHusband,The Cult of the LuxuryBrand:Inside Asias Love Affair,with Luxury,London,2006,Aim High,力争上游,First impressions really count here.You dont get a second chance,“第一印象实在很重要。因为你没有第二次机会”,-Marketing Manager,Shanghai,Makes Cars You Would Be Proud To Own人们为之自豪的汽车,-20,-10,0,10,20,30,AudiBuickHondaMa
