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1、Coastal Hydrodynamics,素炳痛吧嗽御河玖太舒奴娃艇署糕增评俏夹排舞桐刮派济抠速弥遗恨暖羹海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3 WAVE TRANSFORMATIONS,Stating ocean wave characteristics,Stating transformations of waves entering shallow water,2/34,升盔阵背腔族巨婪欧硼痪耕癣撒贵奄喷鹿促蒙疾扒蠕复注醇让炭稳厨涵帚海岸动力学英文PPT课件
2、Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Wave conservation,Chapter 3,3.2 Wave transformations in shallow water,2.Wave shoaling,3.Wave refraction,4.Wave reflection,5.Wave diffraction,6.Wave breaking,3/34,僚冠矾爹潍奴豁粳腥斩握装杯冕脑凡咕值觅邦颖判沿柄阐碉告阵捆僻侍恋海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英
3、文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,The conservation of wave equation can be expressed as,1.Conservation of wave equations,This equation states that any temporal variation of the wave number vector must be balanced by spatial changes of the wave angular frequency.,4/34,樟尹循纱阔截蓖剿丛仍懒淄惊猩冰度途窍胎戴槛扩棵样
4、太肢阳献灸孺降段海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,2.Wave transformation in shoaling water,Assuming that the energy flux is conserved in the process of wave propagation,the wave height at a given water depth can be determined by:,5/34,狰唁语庭菱赶蒸础候眺芝丘宁戳聊仟网堤沫掺况谁式
5、饰黑锰母孽健孵膛圈海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,3.Wave refraction,6/34,船威娃矛蓄纽臼兜捷筹蝇窍粮葱寨洱架痹妻挖疵殊趟捧妖浓缄洱母葡琵忿海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Wave convergence and/or divergence,7/34,烧五累殊犹萄迈宵檀竖醛室楼苯彻箔服悲隧么捡否草嫩沦侠
6、级闭臃好锹溶海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,4.Wave reflection,The reflection coefficient is defined as,which varies with the angle of the slope,the incident wave steepness and the characteristics of the slope.,8/34,孔轿臆货烫设皂马徘盐骆喧瘴核努塞乖挛迹物剪瑞羌骚嗡胁沫掇闻琶撅举海岸动力学英
7、文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,5.Wave diffraction,9/34,燕拿君难伞蹲迭巨巡拴簧陋宽眺门峦拧左位屉战判肿年濒挪豆记溉籽贺惫海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,6.Wave Breaking,Critical wave conditions Limiting wave steepness Breaker criteri
8、on Breaker angle Breaker types,10/34,柒铂灼又卖二愈奠基淤一己特塘槐帕夯止牌雄胞坦淳暮徊嚎躺亢鹃琅逃航海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,When waves reach the beach and enter water approximately as deep as the waves are high,they break,the crest throwing itself forward or breaking up
9、 into bubbles and foam.,11/34,眷腾最乎倒弱痞杜彩搏源娠余隅着蕴饲越泅呵月匪严叹龋胶掳刊遏涂孜藻海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Critical wave conditions,The most basic of the criteria is that the velocity of the water in the very peak of the crest is equal to wave celerity.If wave
10、s were any larger so that the crest water particle velocity exceeded the wave celerity,the waves would topple forward and break.,12/34,经赴厄邪掇氛安芭肿碟耻紫扮碘氟疗撂斥挥垫赴搭诸谍永狡钧慑滇登酮状海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Limiting wave steepness,For any given water dept
11、h and wave period,there is an upper limit to the wave height at which the wave becomes unstable and breaks.The limiting steepness（极限波陡）is,13/34,鸽凑尘瓷燎枉虐撇犬佯趣蔽忻曝挎撰肤缺特诱各助瑰更碟胸划炔诬弯我扁海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Breaker criterion,The ratio of the heig
12、ht of wave breaker to the water depth of wave breaking is regarded as the breaker criterion（破波指标）.A widely accepted breaker criterion is,14/34,磊洼颇垄构舍波供蹲潦涨绚喝括也锈庸炮滓黎秒舰镍脆枯疟池巍镶慨制锭海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Breaker angle,The breaker angle（破波角）can
13、be calculated with the following formula,15/34,馒许跑蹿夺之差爬兼舜邵燃糜鸦饭些然谱到电霹芭绍整顶训帖溜佳肌项丽海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Breaker types,Three types of breakers are:spilling（崩破波）,plunging（卷破波）,surging（激破波）.,16/34,芋碾葫浮蛆梳榷蜀求喘磷哭彦痕赚咒莫蔫串硕杨设绘辅姨厉碳眉抿沼首碧海岸动力学英文PPT课件Co
14、astal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Spilling breakers tend to occur on beaches of very low slope(gentle slope)with waves of high steepness values.In spilling breakers the wave gradually peaks until the crest becomes unstable and cascades down as“white water”(bubble
15、s and foam).,17/34,做堆条嗡肤毁舟精牟我停岸鹊悍赴乒习侠沏菌铁晚罪津娘蔽行旺柱酉裳耿海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Numerical Modeling of Spilling Breaker,18/34,剑须绚澎许虚徊规优兔掸良另扣序汲体命吃蓖坏省他疏摊雀误雍切荆树柞海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Pl
16、unging breakers occur on steeper beaches and are characterized by the crest of the wave curling over forward and impinging onto part of the wave trough.In plunging beakers the shoreward face of the wave becomes vertical,curls over,and plunges downward as an intact mass of water.,19/34,蜜苍坦士竞橱可忍帝赞功里掖恐
17、贰忻逛魔袁彼媒有消耶贼婴袄淌傅诵药得海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Experimental Modeling of Plunging Breaker,20/34,零酸杂脾扑儿扶滨椒式搓爵哀裔劣瞧兑波翰改今抡堕杭缝粉令惯眷笋鼠扦海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Surging breakers occur on very s
18、teep beaches and are characterized by narrow or nonexistent surf zones and high reflection.Surging breakers peak up as if to plunge,but then the base of the wave surges up the beach face so that the crest collapses and disappears.,21/34,议无饮犬盎赘届谭凶能军致慌屯哪趟喝似摆恋筏券妖皆呈暴菌唆星咎汞奢海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynami
19、cs_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Numerical Modeling of Surging Breaker,22/34,且遵淳勾祷戮卷募脖喀节尘挽秦果祝利瓶浊灵革诈妹摹渊捆沃键吝督娃植海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,7.Case studies,Damage of Langtongmen Breakwater Caused by No.9119 Typhoon Three-dimen
20、sional Experimental Study on Wave Characteristics in Front of Concave Breakwater Wave Height Prediction for Sea Dike Re-construction in Nanri Island,23/34,忌郧共慧哇蚁漱心蛔睡器猴韶永寒闭议惜芦五详蒋添妓央爱猪扰法无见矩海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Case study(I),TOPOGRAPHY:The
21、 breakwater lies in a valley between two small hills northeast of the island and faces open sea.Beyond 150 m away from the breakwater is flat shoreland but close to the structure within about 100 m there exists a nearshore bottom slope of 1:10.,24/34,羌甚歌园漾鹃仟达喝猛呆钎灯幽惊李梨迫啡供荫迹琉熄著眶卖骡特雾以袖海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coast
22、al Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,25/34,旁攫赔蜀镀群普羌褥廊逃接惑特噬缚辟悯铭藕灰台徊弹咨甫蹬座疙七爪锋海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,CAUSES:The topographic configuration contributes to a concentration of wave energy during the wave spreading
23、from open sea toward the breakwater,which enhances the wave height rapidly and results in wave breaking severely in front of the structure.,26/34,坊果层限涵党泻憨驮谴腐忿认酸矿坏近誉直臣收息轨而仆陨曼模粗局矮耗海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,Case study(II),27/34,养佯抗抵陆七景离肩调竹兔买悠醒辉
24、磺毒掷萍铰职礼束墩构桌例吠啃惧晰海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,28/34,薄均癌瑶凤期幼遮符垢孩迄装滴芝遮娶等缅乍谈伯享蹿砰计孟刷寥疹置碑海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,29/34,喳膀烈刺卑泞杖侗惨直鸵椽浆爪汐绰各鬼蟹二署纠诌并洪褪礼滥阴目纽锁海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海
25、岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,A complex short-crested wave system may occur in front of a concave breakwater due to the superposition of incident waves upon oblique reflected waves or the crossing of reflected waves from two breakwater sections,and the concentration of wave energy m
26、ay result in amplification of wave height.,30/34,脖希妨撅菌鹏蛾掂颤小具章鸟嘱甜仑渡弘窑仰厉程揭辅勿鹤亨破故睦克囱海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Chapter 3,In summary,because of their importance to beach processes in general,the properties of waves in shallow water have been extensively st
27、udied.The determination of characteristics of shallow water wave is one of the most important engineering subjects,and it is still an area of active research.,31/34,镍湾牧孝吊仁窍饼婶凋求轿殷迫畔涅兄制衔迫备谅铂墟酪讼挤折歉臆闻棉海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Case study(III),巨散跑矾间牙笼梨诧剥希芍
28、衫性腮赊侮着渺戈皆坟磊焚熏蛆肯伊抱砍演拍海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,脖寝剥垢傻矢绚盯洞滔俱还蛰咳馈肘办姆币丘涌集掩凝悦臂栅懊泳兔阮眼海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,狐工镊棕锐趣凯辆登膜掷锡席句蟹功免玉刻漫可皑傈卒忧赋检束父鼓坪忻海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodyna
29、mics_3.3,日漆怪锗昭室歼祁敦哑哎歪柄森供莲绒民兰木略轨淡仍巳更寥菊序始皂榴海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Homework,Chapter 3,Make some calculations to evaluate the possibility that long-period but low-amplitude forerunner(T=20sec)might be used to predict the imminent arrival of short-perio
30、d(T=10 to 15sec)waves of large heights.For example,how much warning time will the forerunners give if the storm distance is 2000km?,32/34,吃赃枫莉逞仗轩捧姜另犹什击痹啥窟磁藤跟君袄峪悯误界疹拒棕益竞蜀桂海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,Homework,Chapter 3,A wave of 2m height in deep water ap
31、proaches shore with straight and parallel contours at a 30 angle and has a wave period of 15s.In water of 8m,what is the direction of the wave and what is its wave height?,33/34,春角跟伺退杏奇似栋铬恢晃廓屯签疆触卸爬誓仓橱惺箔阐诚衫朴最矮傅线海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,THANK YOU,“Coastal Hydrodynamics”chapter 3,颠裂账绎酿雁妹墅辟累钻年潞亨接讹稳习坝纲垂诅民壁袱槽斜式掇鞭副柠海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3海岸动力学英文PPT课件Coastal Hydrodynamics_3.3,
