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1、广东职业技术学院毕业综合实践报告题 目： 牛仔布染色工艺和质量控制 类 型： 毕业论文 专 业： 现代纺织技术与贸易 班 级： xxxxxx 学生姓名： xxxxx 指导教师： 完成时间： 2014年5月29日 摘 要本文介绍了牛仔布（Denim）的染料分类及生产情况，阐述了牛仔布的靛蓝染色原料及其特征，研究了其染色设备及染色新工艺，并进一步分析了影响牛仔布染色质量的因素，提出了相关的解决措施，以提高牛仔布的染色质量。研究发现，通过选择科学染色工艺及在线监测控制，可减少色差、色斑、色不稳定等质量问题。关键词：牛仔布；靛蓝染料；硫化染料；染色设备；染色工艺目 录1牛仔布的概述11.1牛仔布的发展
2、工艺11.1.1牛仔布按染色染料分类21.2牛仔布的生产过程21.2.1经纱的各步骤的要求23牛仔布的染色33.1牛仔布的原材料（靛蓝染色）33.1.1靛蓝的染色原理33.1.2靛蓝的染色特征43.2牛仔布纱的染色设备43.2.1绳染机或称球经染色机43.2.2经纱片状染色机54牛仔布染色新工艺54.1牛仔布的经纱染色的改变54.2染色联合机的改革54.3双色或多色经纱牛仔布的发展65牛仔布染色过程中可能出现的问题及质量控制65.1设备对色光的影响65.2染液液面的影响65.3色差问题65.4 PH值的问题75.5色稳定性75.6染色后出现色斑86结论8致 谢9参考文献9牛仔布的染色工艺和质量
3、控制 1牛仔布的概述世界上的第一条牛仔布就是从美国的三藩市开始的，把原来用来制作帐篷的粗糙帆布，为当时的矿工制造了第一条Levis牛仔裤，一种坚韧耐用的工作服，因十分符合工人们的需求而迅速的发展起来，从此牛仔布的市场也开始运行起来了。牛仔布(Denim)也 叫作丹宁布、坚固呢，始于美国西部，放牧人员用以制作衣裤而得名。最初是一种较粗厚的色织经面斜纹棉布，一般为靛蓝色，又称靛蓝劳动布。牛仔布以全棉为主，也发展采用多种原料结构，有棉、毛、丝麻天然纤维混纺，也有化纤混纺，以及用弹力纱、紧捻纱、花色纱等作原料。氨纶丝的含量越高弹力越大。组织结构一般为斜纹（2/1、3/1、1/3）、破斜纹，经向紧度大于
4、纬向。1.1牛仔布的发展工艺 牛仔布的发展是经过一系列的改革潮流演变而来的，从最初的整理工艺不经水洗到现代的经酶洗的一个阶段，而纺纱的工艺从最开始的环锭纺到现在的气流纺和环锭纺的双结合，这可谓是质的飞越。如表1-1所示。 表1-1牛仔布的发展历史年份19501972197319971980198719881989 整理工艺不经水洗水洗漂洗重洗石洗酸洗砂洗酶洗纺纱工艺环锭纺环锭纺/气流纺气流纺气流纺气流纺气流纺气流纺气流纺/环锭纺1.1.1牛仔布按染色染料分类牛仔布的分类可以分为以下几类，按牛仔布布重分类，按原料分类，按纺纱方法分类，按染色染料分类，按布样弹性分类，按加工方法及工艺分类，按组织分
5、类。对于颜色这一方面来说，可按染料来进行分类（如表12）来进行细分。表1-2牛仔布按染色染料分类分类染色方法或工艺产品特点靛蓝色经纱用靛蓝染色属牛仔布主色调特深蓝牛仔布超靛蓝染色比常规颜色深浓磨洗色牢度好什色经纱用还原、硫化染料染色加工成各种色彩牛仔布套色利用两种染料套染色调朦胧含蓄或呈闪色，属高附加值牛仔布1.2牛仔布的生产过程经纱络筒整经浆染穿经织造后整理检验成包纬纱络筒-织造染色方法多数采用靛蓝染色进行氧化还原反应染浆联合机：工序简单、投资费用少球经染色上浆：高档牛仔布1.2.1经纱的各步骤的要求络筒的意义改变卷装形式，清除纱疵改善纱线张力，均匀卷绕密度，减少筒脚纱（如整经工艺要求整批换
6、筒）。整经方式分批整经和球经整经。染色与浆纱球经染色机和染浆联合机。染色工艺流程经纱球润湿处理温水洗涤（1-2道）浸轧染色氧化（6-8道）温水洗涤（2-3道） 柔软剂处理（1-2道） 烘干落纱卷装于储纱筒后整理坯布 烧毛上浆整纬预烘橡毯预缩呢毯烘燥成品检验包装弹力牛仔布后整理的工艺流程坯布 烧毛浸轧灭火橡毯预缩呢毯烘燥热定型镇定布幅成品检验包装3牛仔布的染色3.1牛仔布的原材料（靛蓝染色）牛仔布的染色是以经纱染色为主。这种染色，最早采用古老的天然靛蓝染料，由于天然资源的限制，现已采用合成靛蓝染料替代。靛蓝染料属于还原染料，本身是非水溶性的，在碱性条件下用还原剂还原后，形成与纤维有亲和力的水溶性
7、形态一隐色体上染纤维再通过氧化过程，隐色体变为不溶性的氧化物，牢固地固着于纤维内部，完成上染过程。其性状可分为1、不溶于水和酒精，溶于热苯胺溶液或浓醋酸。2、在浓硫酸中呈黄光绿色，浓硝酸中呈红光黄色形成靛红。3、加热至170，成紫红色气体，出现升华现象而不分解。4、还原后的碱性隐色体呈澄清的金黄色，酸性状态为不溶于水的白色物。5、在密闭容器中干馏，分解为苯胺。3.1.1靛蓝的染色原理靛蓝染料的特点是牢度好，色泽艳亮。靛蓝染料还是一种还原染料，需要采用还原剂（一般用保险粉，即连二亚硫酸钠或硫酸氢钠）和碱处理使其转变为可溶的隐色体形式，才能进行棉经纱染色，并将浸轧和中间透风相结合。但是靛蓝染料上染
8、率低，原因主要有两方面一方面，染色时，靛蓝染料在烧碱和保险粉作用下呈阴离子性的隐色体，每个染料分子上含有两个隐色酸基团，与纤维素纤维阴离子同性相斥，因而不容易被吸附。另一方面，靛蓝染料分子结构呈非线性，与纤维素纤维亲和力小，易造成表面染色。在纤维素纤维分子中引入阳离子或弱阳离子基团，如含氨基的阳离子化合物，使纤维素纤维的表面阳离子化，使其与呈负电性的靛蓝染料阴离子隐色体产生互相吸引，可有效提高靛蓝染料的上染速率和最终上染率，同时改善染色牢度。由于靛蓝染料的色谱不全，它只有一个蓝色，因此黑色和其他杂色的牛仔布一般是用硫化染料染色而成。硫化染料是含有硝基和氨基的有机化合物，大部分在高温中与硫和硫化
9、钠应而成。许多硫化染料无一定的化学分子式，结构与还原染料相似。也可单独应用保险粉或二氧化硫作还原剂。3.1.2靛蓝的染色特征1. 不能直接染色，还原成碱性隐色体上染。因为靛蓝属于还原染料，要经碱性还原成隐色体才能上染纤维。（还原染料不溶于水，含有羰基结构，染色时，需在碱性还原液中还原成可溶于水的钠盐结构的隐色体而上染纤维。染料隐色体在纤维上经氧化后，回复成不溶性的染料固着于纤维）。2. 还原性能容易还原，还原电位-760mv3. 还原速率靛蓝还原速率较慢，与氧化还原电位没有直接关系。表示还原速率的参数为半还原时间。半还原时间即是染料还原到平衡浓度一半时所需的时间。（影响还原速率的因素1、靛蓝的
10、颗粒细度越细，接触面积越大，还原速率高;保险粉和NAOH浓度越高，温度越高，还原速率就高）。4. 可皂煮性与蒽醌染料不同，氧化后已呈晶体态，不必皂煮。5. 酸碱度影响呈碱性。6. 染色温度低温染色型，20 左右染色最好，超过40 时上色率下降。7. 亲和力较低，亲和力常数=3.5（一般染料30200）。8. 氧化性氧化较快，在隐色体状态，几分钟可转变为染料。9. 染色速率靛蓝染色速率较慢，常会出现染色不足的现象，上染率10%。即染色浓度为10%，一般才上色1%。，故采取多次浸轧方式。3.2牛仔布纱的染色设备3.2.1绳染机或称球经染色机此种染色方法已有160年的历史，它是经过这几种程序运行的，
11、经纱筒子球经整经球经染色重新整经（制成色纱经轴）浆纱（制成织轴）。此种设备车速高、产量大，由于经纱成绳束状染色，挤压渗透好，因而匀染质量较好。但由于工序多、流程长，有设备投资大、人工费高的缺点。其优点是染色速度高。最高达36m/min，较一般染浆机高50%以上。染色质量好。色泽、色光透染程度均匀一致，色差少，并可彻底解决两边与中间的色泽差异问题，且色牢度好。浆轴质量好。染色、上浆分别进行，不互相影响，对上浆控制有利，上浆质量较染浆机好，布机效率高，下机质量好。3.2.2经纱片状染色机此种染色方法开发于1934年，可以与浆纱工艺连接成染浆联合机。染色机一般为11个槽 ，其中包括润湿、染色、水洗氧
12、化等工序。染浆联合机有工序简单 、投资少等优点，但经纱匀染性不及绳染机好，产量不及绳染机高。4牛仔布染色新工艺4.1牛仔布的经纱染色的改变牛仔布的经纱染色由单一的靛蓝染料染色和硫化染料染色，已发展到相互套色,如靛蓝染料打底色，硫化染料套色或硫化染料打底色，靛蓝染料套色。以及用硫化染料打底靛蓝染料套色再硫化染料套色，形成复合式染色。用不同的服装洗水方法，达到立体视觉效果。不过这种颜色上的改革在一定的程度上会导致色光控制难度大，容易出现色差。4.2染色联合机的改革新型的高速滚染联合机，它是在原先浆染联合机的基础上进行了很大的改进，使其更加适应生产的需要和变化。能适应更多的花色品种，提高生产的质量和
13、效率。其机的特点在于可整机自动同步运行，其中轧辊变成电动机拖动，设有手动调速，另外一点在于后车经轴架与染色机之间增加了一个能容纳长为80至100米的储纱架。4.3双色或多色经纱牛仔布的发展双色或多色经纱牛仔布也是近两年开发新的染色技术，片状染色机和束状染色机均可以生产，片状染色机可采取分片染色，束状染色机可采取分缸染色。双色或多色牛仔布可选不同颜色组合，达到不同的视觉效果。牛仔布厂可采取设备束染机改造后循环染色达到16次浸一轧一透风。5牛仔布染色过程中可能出现的问题及质量控制5.1设备对色光的影响与设备的开车稳定性有关，如车速、烘燥条件、升降温速度、压力控制等。设备工艺控制稳定，就能从设备上保
14、证染色色光稳定，保证重现性。另外一方面由于染液的酸碱度、还原剂用量掌握不当所致。比如靛蓝染色是在碱性条件下进行的，染液酸碱度的波动也会影响保险粉作用的发挥，所以实际生产中要不断对染液的pH值进行测定。另外，保险粉的保存温度应该保持在1923为宜，色光才能得到保证。5.2染液液面的影响在牛仔布经纱实际染色过程中，由于环境温湿度的变化而导致片纱在透风氧化中水分挥发也有较明显的变化，从而使得染槽内染液液面的上下波动。虽然还原母液按一定流量补充染槽后，能与染料的消耗保持平衡，但这并不等于染槽内染液体积保持平衡。经过测试纱线每次氧化时水分挥发率占纱质量的6左右，故还原母液补充应等于染纱的各种消耗，以保持
15、染液体积不变。在保证靛蓝浓度及液面稳定的情况下，染液中保险粉、烧碱也要处于相对平衡。经过测试，理论量值应为：m(靛蓝)：m(保险粉)：m(烧碱)=1：O66：061。在实际生产中，依据还原母液的补充速率算出保险粉、烧碱的补给速率。5.3色差问题色差问题(前后色差)染色浓度、烧碱和保险粉补充量计算不准（边中色差）设备不良操作不当经纱排列不匀。可以采用染色促进剂来解决匀染性差的问题。将 KD一8处理棉纱和未处理棉纱染 l6道，比较其染色KS值的差异，结果如（表1-3）。 表 1-3棉纱整理前后染料上染情况对比染色道数KS值未处理棉纱KD-8处理棉纱1道6.2115.112道10.3120.313道
16、14.6723.094道17.8926.515道21.9027.856道22.8229.92表 13中，经 KD8（染色促进剂）处理的棉纱，染3道即可达到传统工艺染6道的KS值，继续增加染色次数，KS值还可继续提高，但提高幅度有所减小。试验发现 ，经 KD一8处理的棉纱容易染花。因为其一，染料隐色体和纤维 的直接性显著增大，造成纱线表面染料吸附不均衡；其二，纤维上 引人了大量阳离子基团形成染座，与染料隐色体分子牢固结合，移染性差。通过减少染浴内染料、烧碱和保险粉的用量，可以解决匀染性差的问题。5.4 PH值的问题棉纱染色前后有色差，很大程度上与PH的大小有着一定的关联。单离子形式的靛蓝染料在纤
17、维表面具有良好的亲和力和较高的染色上染率，但这又降低了染料在纱芯内的渗透，在使纱线表面得色量大大增加。当采用高pH值时，以双离子形式的靛蓝染料将具有低的亲和力，并因此在纱芯内有较大的染料渗透和较低的纱线表面得色率。因此在靛蓝染色过程中，pH值随时间发生的变化会影响得色量以及后续靛蓝染色纱线的洗净性能。5.5色稳定性色稳定性是影响染色质量的关键。如果色稳定控制不好，就会在整个布面上表现出色差或色档，最终将影响成品的质量。纱束与染液接触的时间是影响色稳定的主要因素。染色机的速度要均匀，染槽液面要保持稳定一 致，应尽量做到染液补充量等于染液的消耗量，以保持槽内染液体积不变。在染色过程中要严格控制烧碱
18、和保险粉的含量。随着染色的进行，纱束通过染浴槽后会带走一部分保险粉，在空气中干燥分解，即使在染液中保险也会分解，致使染液中保险粉的浓度下降，从而影响色稳定。5.6染色后出现色斑原纱配棉过程中，单根杂纤维混入，造成上染不一，布面上表现出发白的斑点又或者是整经张力设定过大造成纱线松弛时自捻成“辫子结”，染色时“辫子”没有打开，无法均匀染色，在重新整经的时候由于张力的作用，“辫子结”被拉开形成白点，或是原纱捻度不匀造成上染不匀。解决办法：提高原纱配棉质量；控制整经张力；整经停机时间适当延长，稳定开车速度；保持上染速度适当，染液温度不能太高和及时清洁染槽轧液辊。6结论牛仔布是否完美首先要看染料的合理选
19、择，这个可以改变传统单一的蓝黑风格，使得牛仔布更趋向于多样化和时尚化。选择科学染色工艺及在线监测控制，是保证牛仔布的染色 稳定性的关键；染色工艺对牛仔布的染色牢度起到至关重要的作用，染色设备是新工艺新技术的保证，要严格控制染色工的每一个环节，以减少色差、色斑、色不稳定等质量问题 。在现阶段来说，牛仔布的市场还是会挺有发展的空间，可以选择改良牛仔布型的运动裤，外面的一层可以跟牛仔裤的外面一样，里面则是采取运动材料，这样既能满足现代人对牛仔布单一的追寻，有能满足他们在运动方面的要求。在于牛仔布的颜色上也能有多项选择。致 谢通过这次牛仔布的染色工艺及其工艺质量控制，使得我在整个牛仔布的染色过程有了深
20、刻的理解。另外，特别对指导老师何晓霞表示深深的感谢，因为她在我的论文的各个方面提供了很多的帮助。参考文献1 张成会，相鹰维劳夫特保莱绒棉保暖牛仔布的生产实践J上海纺织科技，2009(1)：30-32.2 刘金树，崔淑玲牛仔布减污染色工艺J印染，201O(13)：27-29.3 薛志成如何提高牛仔布的染色质量J染整技术，2009(6)：29-31.4 朱超华，邱滔，徐圃清等牛仔布染色废水中靛蓝染料回收技术研究J环境科学与技术，2010(4)：137-140.5 杭伟明环保型固色剂 G合成机理和固色机理初探J国外丝绸，1999(5)：37-40O(_)O谢谢！2 Many people have
21、the same mixed feelings when planning a trip during Golden Week. With heaps of time, the seven-day Chinese为你提供优秀的毕业论文设计参考资料，请您删除一下内容，O(_)O谢谢！National Day holiday could be the best occasion to enjoy a destination. However, it can also be the easiest way to ruin how you feel about a place and you may
22、become more fatigued after the holiday, due to battling the large crowds. During peak season, a dream about a place can turn to nightmare without careful planning, especially if you travel with children and older people. As most Chinese people will take the holiday to visit domestic tourist destinat
23、ions, crowds and busy traffic are inevitable at most places. Also to be expected are increasing transport and accommodation prices, with the possibility that there will be no rooms available. It is also common that youllwait in the line for one hour to get a ticket, and another two hours at the site
24、, to only see a tiny bit of the place due to the crowds. Last year, 428 million tourists traveled in China over the week-long holiday in October. Traveling during this period is a matter that needs thorough preparation. If you are short on time to plan the upcoming Golden Week it may not be a bad id
25、ea to avoid some of the most crowded places for now. There is always a place so fascinating that everyone yearns for. Arxan is a place like this. The beauty of Arxan is everlasting regardless of the changing of four seasons. Bestowed by nature, its spectacular seasonal landscape and mountains are ju
26、st beyond word. Arxan is a crucial destination for the recommended travelling route, China Inner Mongolia Arxan Hailar Manzhouli. It is also the joint of the four prairies across the Sino-Mongolian border, where people gravitate towards the exotic atmosphere mixed with Chinese, Russian, and Mongolia
27、 elements. As a historic site for the Yitian Battle, Arxan still embodies the spirit of Genghis Khan. Walking into Arxan, you will be amazed by a kaleidoscope of gorgeous colors all the year round - the Spring azaleas blooming red in the snow, the Summer sea wavering blue in the breeze, the Autumn l
28、eaves painted in yellow covering volcanic traces, and the Winter woods shining white on the vast alpine snowscape. Hinggan League Arxan city is situated in the far eastern area of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. Its full name Haren Arxan means hot holy water in the Mongolian language. Arxan is a t
29、ourism city in the northern frontier with a blend of large forest, grand prairies, vast snowfield, heaven lake cluster, thermium, as well as volcanic cluster. It is a rare and unique ecotourism base filled with healthy sunshine, clean air and unspoiled green. Nestled close to the countrys largest vi
30、rgin forest, and known for its spring and ecological environment, Arxan is marveled at by many tourists as the purest land on earth. You cannot miss out the Autumn of Arxan. It is definitely the best with brightly-colored scenery full of emotions. Autumn in the northern part of the country comes ear
31、lier than the South. A September rain followed by the footprints of Autumn brings more colors to the once emerald green mountain and blooming grassland. Shutterbugs flock to see for themselves the marvel of splendid colors around the mountains and waters, many of whom have travel a long distance and
32、 even camp here only to capture a moment of the nature wonder. The silver birch turns golden, while the larch is still proudly green. You will find yourself drowned in the intoxicating red of the wild fruits as well as the glamour of flowers in full blown. And your heart will be lingering on the woo
33、ds as its time for the wild fruits to ripe. The picturesque Arxan in Autumn is indeed a fairyland only exists in a dream that satisfies all your fantasies. If itrains heavily on Saturday night, some elderly Chinese will say it is because Zhinu, or the Weaving Maid, is crying on the day she met her h
34、usband Niulang, or the Cowherd, on the Milky Way. Most Chinese remember being told this romantic tragedy when they were children on Qixi, or the Seventh Night Festival, which falls on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month, which is usually in early August. This year it falls on Saturday, August
35、 2. Folklore Story As the story goes, once there was a cowherd, Niulang, who lived with his elder brother and sister-in-law. But she disliked and abused him, and the boy was forced to leave home with only an old cow for company. The cow, however, was a former god who had violated imperial rules and
36、was sent to earth in bovine form. One day the cow led Niulang to a lake where fairies took a bath on earth. Among them was Zhinu, the most beautiful fairy and a skilled seamstress. The two fell in love at first sight and were soon married. They had a son and daughter and their happy life was held up
37、 as an example for hundreds of years in China. Yet in the eyes of the Jade Emperor, the Supreme Deity in Taoism, marriage between a mortal and fairy was strictly forbidden. He ordered the heaven troop to catch Zhinu back. Niulang grew desperate when he discovered Zhinu had been taken back to heaven.
38、 Driven by Niulangs misery, the cow told him to turn its hide into a pair of shoes after it died. The magic shoes whisked Niulang, who carried his two children in baskets strung from a shoulder pole, off on a chase after the empress. The pursuit enraged the empress, who took her hairpin and slashed
39、it across the sky creating the Milky Way which separated husband from wife. But all was not lost as magpies, moved by their love and devotion, formed a bridge across the Milky Way to reunite the family. Even the Jade Emperor was touched, and allowed Niulang and Zhinu to meet once a year on the seven
40、th night of the seventh month. This is how Qixi came to be. The festival can be traced back to the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220). Traditionally, people would look up at the sky and find a bright star in the constellation Aquila as well as the star Vega, which are identified as Niulang and Zhinu. The t
41、wo stars shine on opposite sides of the Milky Way. Customs In bygone days, Qixi was not only a special day for lovers, but also for girls. It is also known as the Begging for Skills Festival or Daughters Festival. In this day, girls will throw a sewing needle into a bowl full of water on the night o
42、f Qixi as a test of embroidery skills. If the needle floats on top of the water instead of sinking, it proves the girl is a skilled embroiders. Single women also pray for finding a good husband in the future. And the newly married women pray to become pregnant quickly. Tradition transformed The love
43、 story of Niulang and Zhinu, and the Qixi Festival have been handed down for generations. Yet these ancient traditions and customs are slowly dying out. Many modern Chinese, particularly youngsters, seem to know more about St Valentines Day on February 14, characterized by bouquets of roses, chocola
44、tes and romantic candlelight dinners, than they do about their home-grown day for lovers. Even Qixi is nowadays referred to as the Chinese Valentines Day. More and more young Chinese people begin to celebrate this day in a very similar way as that in western countries. Fewer people than ever will ga
45、ze at the heavens on Saturday to pick out the two stars shining bright on either side of the Milky Way, that is, if people even know on which day Qixi falls. There are ready reminders dotted about, in the form of big ads saying Sales on Chinese Valentines Day! in shops, hotels and restaurants. But f
46、ew young women will mark the festival with their boyfriends, or take part in traditional activities to pray for cleverness. A large-scale of exhibition on the Silk Road opened to the public in the National Museum on Thursday. The exhibition displays more than 400 treasures from Shaanxi province, Gan
47、su province and 14 other regions. It is largest scale exhibition that shows the history of the Silk Road in recent years. AsAPECis going on in Beijing, the exhibit aims to show the world this brilliant section of history. The Silk Road is a series of trade and cultural transmission routes that were central to cultural interaction t
