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1、Simona Tanning,Simona Tanning,Mission Statement兴昂制革的使命陈述,Simona Tanning aims to:我们致力于Produce innovative and exciting world class lifestyle leathers.生产创新的,令人激赏的世界级皮革.Reduce average lead times to shortest in our industry.在这一行,我们要将平均操作时间减至最低Provide the highest quality and consistency in our industry.在这
2、一行.我们要生产提供品质最高且一致性的产品.Have the best trained people who are motivated to succeed working in an dynamic and encouraging environment.拥有经过最佳培训的员工,他们能在活泼,充满朝气的环境中得到激励,在工作中不断取得成功.,Investment and Plant Design皮厂的总投资及厂房的设计,Total Investment:(总投资超过)over US$40,000,000.Tannery size:(整个厂房的占地面积约为)60,000 sq.meterMo
3、nthly capacity:7,000 sides per day/4.2 million sqft per month(整个皮厂的设计产能为每天生产皮革7,000片,每月生产4,200,000平方英尺)2006-8,000,000 ft.2007-14,500,000 ft.2008-23,500,000 ft.2009-28,500,000 ft.2010-33,500,000 ft.2011-33,000,000 ft.2012-30,000,000 ft.,Investment and Plant Design皮厂的总投资及厂房的设计,Sample Development capac
4、ity(研发产能）2006-50 samples per week,total 300,000sqft per year2007-100 samples per week,total 600,000sqft per year2008-150 samples per week,total 700,000sqft per year2009-200 samples per week,total 800,000sqft per year2010-2012 250 samples per week,total 1,000,000sqft per year,INTRODUCTION to LEATHER
5、MAKING制革流程介紹,MAKING LEATHER 制造皮革,Leather making is an age old process used to preserve the skin of animals制革流程是從保存動物皮革開始并且是一個漫長過程.The leather making process is called“tanning”生產皮革過程叫制革.Now days the process is quite sophisticated and innovative,enabling us to make the many leather types available tod
6、ay.現在的技術是相當精密和創新的,使我們能夠生產多種種類的皮革以提供所需.,RAW MATERIAL皮源,Hide from Cows生皮來自牛 Mostly use Heavy Texas Steers&Heifer Hides(from USA)大多是用得克薩斯牛皮和小牛皮(來自美國),BEAMHOUSE,Processes hides with hair on them to chrome tanned leather加工生皮使除去其上面的毛髮然後鉻鞣皮革.,Usually a 2 day process通常需要兩天時間 This process is done off-site這個過
7、程在來興昂前已完成.,TANNING 制革,To stabilise the hide using Chromium用鉻穩定皮革To stop it putrefying(rotting)防止腐化(腐爛)This process is undertaken off-site.此過程不在兴昂制革生产,SIMONA TANNINGs RAW MATERIAL興昂制革原材料,WET BLUE HIDES藍濕皮Bought from the USA購買自美國,WET BLUE GRADING藍濕皮分級,To accurately grade the leather for defects準确的根據皮料
8、上的瑕疵給皮革分級To ensure we use the best hides available for the correct purpose確保使用正确的等级在正确的产品上.To ensure we do not make rejects at Final Sort確保不要在成品後造成废料.,WET BLUE GRADING OPERATION藍濕皮分級操作,Hide placed on a slow moving conveyor生皮放置在緩速運行的輸送帶上面,2.Graders check for hide defects分級人員檢查皮革缺陷,SAMMING擠水,To remove
9、 moisture from the hide除去大部分皮革水分To prepare the hide for the Splitting operation 以為片皮操作做準備,WET BLUE GRADING OPERATION藍濕皮分級操作,3.Grade stamped on hide皮革將被打印等級,4.Leather stacked by grade皮革堆放在分級台上面,SPLITTING片皮,To cut hide into two layers將皮革分成兩層Top layer is the grain(used by Simona Tanning)上面一層為粒面皮(興昂制革所使
10、用的)Bottom layer is the split which is sold 下面一層二層皮-將被售出Splitting is relatively inaccurate 二層皮很不精確,TYPICAL THICKNESSES PRODUCED代表性的厚度,Ladies substance 1.2 to 1.6 mm女裝鞋厚度1.2至1.6毫米Mens substance 1.6 to 2.4 mm男裝鞋厚度1.6至2.4毫米,SHAVING削里,To even the substance of the side 使皮革厚度平均Shaving is relatively accurat
11、e 削里要相當精確,RETANNING DRUM PROCESS復鞣轉鼓過程,To create the desired properties of the leather.實現所要求的特性Add filling agents called retanning 加填充劑叫復鞣Add softening agents called fatliquoring 加軟化劑叫加脂Add colour called dyeing 加染色劑叫染色,DRYING乾燥,To dry the leather in preparation for finishing乾燥皮革以準備做后工段处理Many differe
12、nt drying styles dependent on type of finished leather characteristics根据成品皮特性種類有多種不同的乾燥類型.,DRYING OPERATION乾燥操作,Sammy Set 劑水設置To remove water擠去水分,DRYING OPERATION乾燥操作,Vacuum Drying 真空乾燥,Pasting 貼板乾燥,DRYING OPERATION乾燥操作,Toggling 繃板乾燥,Natural Hang Dry 自然挂晾乾燥,DRYING OPERATION乾燥操作,Staking振盪機,FINISHING塗
13、飾,To add feel and softness to the leather給皮革增加手感和柔軟度To cover defects in the natural hide覆蓋自然皮革缺陷Lots of finish(pigmented)-generally lesser value較多的塗飾(塗劑)-一般是質量較差的皮革Little finish(aniline)generally higher value較少的塗飾(苯胺)一般是較好質量的皮革,FINISHING OPERATION塗飾操作,Roller Coating滾塗機To roll a coat of finish/oil on
14、 the leather將塗劑或油脂滾塗在皮革上面,Spray Machine噴塗機To spray the finish coat on the leather 給皮革塗層,FINISHING OPERATION塗飾操作,Milling drums摔軟轉鼓To soften and make leather with milled pattern軟化皮革並使其有不同摔花纹路,Polishing Machine 拋光機To smooth grain&give polished effect使粒面光滑,達到光亮效果,FINISHING OPERATION塗飾操作,Buffing磨革To remo
15、ve the grain and make nubuck leather除去粒面生產牛巴戈,Printing/Embossing Machine壓花烫光機To print/emboss the leather with specific pattern 以特定的樣式給皮革壓花烫光,PROCESS FLOW CHART Building 1,3.Wet Blue Grading藍濕皮分級,4.Samming 擠水,5.Splitting 片皮,6.Shaving 削里,7.Trim 修邊整理,8.Retan/Dye 復鞣/染色,1.Beamhouse/TanningDone Offsite 去毛
16、,2.Wet Back回濕,9.Sam/Setting 擠水/設置,10.Vacuum Dry 真空乾燥,11a.Toggle Dry 繃板乾燥,11c Air Hang Dry 挂涼乾燥,12.Condition回湿,13.Stake 振盪,PROCESS FLOW CHART Drying,11b.Paste Dry 貼板乾燥,14b.Buffing&Dedusting 磨革,14a.Milling 摔軟,15b.Roller Coating滾塗機,15a Spray Machine噴塗機,14c.Brushing/Napping刷拭/起絨,PROCESS FLOW CHART Finis
17、hing,16a.Embossing軋花機,16c.Ironing 熨湯機,16b.Polishing 拋光機,17.Final Sort Inspection/Grading成品分級,檢查/分級,19.Measure and pack 測量包裝,20.Despatch to customer 給客戶發貨,PROCESS FLOW CHART Final Sort,18.Lab Testing實驗室測試,LEATHER TYPES皮革類型,Fullgrain全粒面革Corrected Grain修飾面革Aniline苯胺革Pigmented涂料革Nubuck牛巴戈Oil Pull-up變色效應
18、革Waterproof防水革Speciality特質革,SATRA GradingSATRA 分級,The SATRA grading system is an internationally accepted and proven leather grading system which can be used by tanners and footwear manufacturers to assess leather cutability.SATRA分級體系是一個國際性公認的和被証明了的皮革分級體系，可在皮廠，鞋廠用來評估皮革的可裁率.Quality will vary accordin
19、g to the size,location and type of flaw.Leather assessment and the use of the SATRA five-point grading systems provides a qualitative method to assess these defects and then assign a standard grade to the skin 根據皮革的尺寸，位置以及折皺類型其質量有多種.皮革的評估以及應用SATRA五點分級體系提供了定性的方法來評估這些瑕疵並給這張皮以標准的等級.The SATRA SUMM metho
20、d uses a realistic pattern to assess cutability(an inside quarter of a standard dress shoe),but as such this will not be an indication of actual cutting yields.Historically,actual cutting values have shown higher yields than SATRA assessment figures,this being determined by actual pattern and cutter
21、 skill.SATRA SUMM方法是應用一個實際可行的模板來評估其可裁率(標准男鞋的內腰),但這並不是實際上的可裁面積.根據歷史事實，實際的可裁面積比SATRA評估的數據要高，這是通過實際的型估以及裁刀人員技術決定的.,SATRA GradingSATRA 分級,SATRA SUM grading gives a measure of the percentage of cuttable area of a side of leather.SATRA SUM 分級給出了一張皮的可裁率.Each side of leather is carefully examined by the Gra
22、der.每一張皮都有經過分級員的仔細品檢.A standard pattern is used to determine cutability(Size 9 English Derby Quarter).一個標准的模塊用來決定可裁率(9碼的內腰).The grader calculates the area(square feet)of unusable leather i.e.area of leather with defects on it which cannot be cut in to the quarter.分級員計算不可用皮的面積(平方英尺).舉例，有瑕疵部份的地方但不能放進去
23、一個內腰.A1=97%cuttable A1=可用率達97%A2=93%cuttable A2=可用率達93%B3=88%cuttable B3=可用率達88%B4=83%cuttable B4=可用率達83%C5=78%cuttable C5=可用率達78%D6=73%cuttable D6=可用率達73%,SATRA GradingSATRA 分級,The grade is stamped on flesh of leather.分級的等級有打印在皮的肉面上.Leather is separated(As grouped together,Bs grouped together,Cs to
24、gether,Ds together),measured and packed separately不同等級的皮有分開放置（A等級的皮放在一起，B等級的皮放在一起，C等級的放在一起，D等級的皮放在一起.分開量皮以及分開包裝.The average Load Grade Coefficient calculated(target is 83%cuttable)一鼓皮的平均品質系數的計算(品質系數目標是83%)Documentation completed and sent to customer(if requested).完成相關文件並傳給客戶（如有要求）.All Simona Tanning
25、 despatched leather is graded by trained and certified(by SATRA)graders,using the SATRA SUM method.所有興昂制革出貨的皮都有經過受過SATRA培訓並拿到SATRA証書的分級人員品檢，應用SATRA SUM方法.Certification is reviewed yearly by SATRA staff SATRA証書是一年一次通過SATRA人員考核而得到.,Thanks!,What is environmental management?什麼是環境管理？,Environment Manageme
26、nt refers to the management of resources which impact on the environment.環境管理是指涉及到對環境影響的資源的管理.Examples include:舉例包括 management of resources(water,electricity,chemicals,personnel).管理資源(水，電，化料，員工）.Use of recycled products where possible(paper,plastic,wood etc).盡可能地使用可循環產品(紙張，塑料，木頭等等）.management of liq
27、uid waste(industrial waste from tannery,domestic waste from canteen),solid waste(leather trimmings,chemical residues,chemical barrels etc),air emissions.管理液體廢棄物(包括皮廠流出的工業廢水，從食堂流出的生活廢水),固體廢棄物(修邊皮屑，化料殘留物，化料桶等等),廢氣.management of the site housekeeping,emergency plans.工作現廠的管理 室內清潔，緊急情況計划.management of th
28、e leathers we produce no restricted substances.管理我們所生產的皮革 無禁止物質.,Why is environmental management important?為什麼環境管理很重要？,We have a responsibility to ensure we do NO negative impact to the environment.我們有責任來保証我們不做對環境有消極影響的事.We have a responsibility to our customers to ensure the leathers we make are ma
29、de in an environmentally responsible way,to accepted internationally accepted environmental standards.我們對客戶負責，確保興昂制革是通過環保形的負責任的方法來生產成品皮，並接受國際認証的環境標准.We have been independently assessed by the BLC as compliant and scored 75.9%in the LWG Environmental Audit.我們已有獨立的通過了BLC的稽核以及LWG的環境稽核-分數是75.9%.,Simona
30、Tannings Environmental Policy 環 境 政 策,The purpose of establishing an environmental policy is to ensure Simona Tanning is an environmentally responsible producer of finished leather goods.制定環境政策的目的就是為了確保興昂制革是一家在環保方面負責任的成品皮生產廠家。Simona Tanning will ensure that its operational activities comply fully wi
31、th relevant environmental legislation,and perceived best practice.興昂制革將確保其營運活動都完全遵守相關的環境法律法規，並盡可能達到最高標準之要求。Simona Tanning strives by the setting of objectives and the measurement and analysis of data,for continual improvement of its environmental management procedures.興昂制革通過設定一系列的目標，檢測以及數據分析以達到持續改善環
32、境管理程序的目的。Simona Tanning will focus on the management of resources and aims to reduce and/or recycle wherever possible.興昂制革將關注資源管理，並致力於減少資源的使用或盡可能地循環利用資源,Environmental Introduction環保的介紹,Simona Tanning treats all liquid waste(processing liquor,domestic waste)on-site in a purpose designed effluent trea
33、tment plant.After treatment it is discharged to a river as per our consent licence from the Huizhou City Government.興昂皮廠在專門設計的污水處理廠處理所有的液體廢氣物(生產污水，生活污水).處理完后排放到河里面（有惠州政府簽發的同意執照).Simona Tannings future plan in 2008 is to recycle up to 60%of its treated effluent back in to the tannery to use as proces
34、s water(approximately 1440m3/day).興昂皮廠2008年的計划是循環利用60%的處理後污水，作為皮廠的生產水.(大約1440m3/day).,Environmental Introduction有關環境的介紹,Simona Tanning separates all solid wastes on-site.Items like shaving dust,wet blue trimmings,leather trimmings,paper,plastic,chemical barrels etc are all recycled(sold and then rec
35、ycled).Hazardous wastes like effluent sludge are removed by a government approved and licence contractor.興昂皮廠有把所有的固體廢棄物在現廠進行分類.比如說削勻灰塵，藍濕皮修邊料，成品皮修邊料，紙張，塑料，化料桶等等都有循環利用(賣出去然后再利用).危險品廢棄物像污泥我們有交給政府授權頒發了執照的合同商處理.Simona Tannings Environmental Management systems focus is to be a practical and effective sys
36、tem to manage the Companys impact on the environment 興昂皮廠的環保管理體系的重點是成為一個可實踐的以及有效的體系來管理公司在環境上的影響.,Simona Tannings Environmental Focus興昂制革的環境重點,Wet End Department 水廠 Recycling wash-off liquor&samming machine liquor back to Wet Back drum reduction in water use from 13L/hide to 1.1L/hide.循環利用擠水機上的水回用到回濕
37、鼓里-從之前的13L/hide用水量降到現在的1.1L/hide.Reduction in shavings generated by more accurate shaving reduction from 0.51Kg/side to 0.27Kg/side.通過更精確的削勻，其削勻皮屑有減少 從原來的0.51kg/side降低到現在的0.27kg/side.,Use of Olcina drums for low float retan processing.使用OLCINA轉鼓進行少水量的復鞣制程.Chemicals no chemicals used which may contai
38、n banned substances.化料 所使用的化料沒有含禁止的物質.Water&chemical meters to reduce chemical wastage only dose what is needed.水量計和化料計來減少化料的浪費 只有劑量系統需要.,Simona Tannings Environmental Focus興昂制革的環境重點,Drying Department 干燥車間 Low Temperature Vacuum Drying reduced energy use 設置低的真空干燥溫度 減少電的使用.Natural Hang Drying reduced
39、 energy use 自然挂晾干燥 減少能源的使用 Closed circuit steam to reduce energy wastage 關閉環形密閉式循環系統以減少能源的浪費.,Simona Tannings Environmental Focus興昂制革的環境重點,Finishing Department涂飾部門 Use of water based chemicals where possible.盡可能地使用水制的化料.Chemicals no chemicals used which may contain banned substances.化料 所使用的化料沒有含禁止的物
40、質.Monitoring of solvent usage to focus on reduction.管控溶劑的使用減少其使用量.Water scrubbers on spray line exhaust to purify exhaust.在嘖龍機台的氣體排出處安放水洗滌器以淨化氣體.Buffing dust extractor&compactor on buffing machines to reduce dust emissions.在磨革機上安裝集塵塔和擠渣機以降低灰塵的散發.,Simona Tannings Effluent Treatment System興昂制革的污水處理系統,
41、All effluent generated onsite(industrial&domestic)is treated in the effluent treatment plant and then discharged.所有現場生產的污水（工業污水和生活污水）都有經過污水處理廠處理然后排放.Due to increasing production levels a new treatment plant is being constructed and will be commissioned in March 2008.This new plant will treat all our
42、 effluent and the technologies employed will allow us to recycle 60%of the treated effluent back to the tannery to use as process water.由於產量的增加，我們有新建一個污水處理廠將在08年3月份開始運作.新的污水處理廠可處理我們所有的污水，並且我們所采取的工藝將允許我們把處理后的污水的60%進行回用，我們將把這部分水作為制程用水.,Simona Tanning Treatment Plant Flowchart key stages興昂制革污水處理廠流程 關鍵階
43、段,Balancing調節池,Primary Settling初沉,Oil/Grease removal去除油/脂,Flocculation&settling凝聚並沉定,Biological Treatment Anaerobic生化處理（兼性池),Biological Treatment Aerobic 生化處理(好氧池),MBR(Membrane Bio-Reactor)MBR處理,Ultra Filtration超濾,RO(Reverse Osmosis)(反滲透系統),Store&reuse in tannery process water儲存並重新利用到皮廠 生產用水,Old ETP for further treatment,then discharge原污水處理廠進行進一步的處理 然后排放,60%,40%,40%discharged 排放40%,60%reuse to tannery循環利用於皮廠有60%,Simona Tanning Key Environmental Measures興昂制革關鍵環境檢測,
