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1、嘉兴传统淋饭酒母的生产工艺初探汪 建 国嘉兴酿造总公司 邮 314003摘要：本文简叙了嘉兴传统喂饭黄酒中，淋饭酒母特征, 优势 和制作过程中的要求等。在此基础上提出了制造淋饭酒母所掌握的关健点及生化培养中控制要求及措施。关键词 嘉兴淋饭酒母 特征 操作技艺 控制要点 措施嘉兴黄酒是喂饭发酵代表酒种。喂饭黄酒发酵采用淋饭酒母是嘉兴酿酒行业全体员工在淋饭酒工艺的基础上经过长期实践, 不断摸索, 逐渐演变而来的。是嘉兴酿酒行业共亨的财富和技术结晶。 嘉兴淋饭酒母主要以粳米或糯米, 籼米为原料, 经过浸米, 蒸煮, 淋浇, 米饭入缸, 接入传统酒药, 拌饭搭窝, 保温培养繁殖根霉, 毛霉, 梨头霉,
2、 曲霉等霉菌以产生淀粉酶, 蛋白酶, 脂肪酶, 纤维素酶。在以各种酶水解米饭中的淀粉, 蛋白质, 脂肪, 纤维素产生糖液, 多肽, 氨基酸等营养物质培养酵母；同时在分解过程中转化分泌一定量的有机酸, 主要以乳酸为主, 合理调节甜酒酿的PH值, 抑制杂菌生长。淋饭酒母制作过程实际上是筛选和驯育耐高酒精度, 耐高糖度, 既耐高温又耐低温, 耐低PH值, 能与糖化菌, 乳酸杆菌协同发挥作用的混合培养过程。在我国黄酒行业制酒母技术上是独一无二的。是嘉兴喂饭黄酒对酵母制作技术的创新与发展。现将嘉兴传统淋饭酒母的生产工艺略以初探, 望有志这一行业同仁给于批评指正。 1, 嘉兴淋饭酒母工艺和绍兴淋饭酒母工艺
3、的比较嘉兴喂饭黄酒采用酵母是用酒药通过淋饭酒醅的制作, 自然繁殖培养糖化菌和酵母菌以及乳酸菌, 这种酒母称为淋饭酒母。同时淋饭酒母又称“酒娘”因米饭采用泠水淋浇的操作而得名。 嘉兴喂饭黄酒发酵醪中的微生物菌群中的酒精酵母, 果酒酵母, 产酯酵母, 根霉, 毛霉, 梨头霉, 曲霉, 细菌（主要是乳酸菌）是于淋饭酒母中接到黄酒发酵中；绍兴黄酒的发酵醪中的微生物菌群中的酵母（拟内孢霉酵母, 酒精酵母, 丝孢酵母, 汉逊氏酵母）根霉, 毛霉, 梨头霉, 念珠霉, 曲霉, 红曲霉, 细菌（乳酸球菌, 乳酸杆菌）主要于淋饭酒母和麦曲, 浆水引入到绍兴黄酒发酵酒醪中；因此说二种淋饭酒母微生物菌群种类繁多,
4、错综复杂, 变化万千。从淋饭酒母采用原料, 工艺和制作天数来看：嘉兴淋饭酒母以粳米为原料, 酒药为接种剂。从米饭搭窝到制成淋饭酒母的时间为3,5天；绍兴淋饭酒母是以自制酒药, 糯米饭拌药搭窝培养制成甜酒酿, 加水, 加麦曲而成,同时淋饭酒母都集中在酿酒前一段时间酿造, 制成淋饭酒母后, 在用于整个冬酿绍兴黄酒的生产。现将嘉, 绍两种淋饭酒母理化指标对比如下：见表一所示。 表1： 二种淋饭酒母理化分析及镜检结果比较 项目嘉 兴 淋 饭 酒 母绍 兴 淋 饭 酒 母酒精度%v/v2,5一3,02,6一3,515,815,6总酸g/100ml0,25一0,260,27一0,300,3420,310还
5、原糖g/100ml10一12,08,0一9,50,2630,451PH值4,404,203,954,16酵母总数亿个/ml8,5一8,68,8一9,09,79,1出芽率%25,528,03,76,0培养发酵周期3,5h45h一90h 3,嘉兴淋饭酒母的特征： 3.1嘉兴淋饭酒母采用粳米饭为培养基,陈酒药为接种剂。从培养基的化学成分分析：粳米中含有较高淀粉,适中蛋白质,脂肪,维生素及微量元素成分。符合酵母,霉菌,和乳酸菌生命活动中对碳源,氮源,生长素,无机盐等营养物质的需求和平衡。 3.2淋饭酒母在培养过程中利用酒药中的根霉,毛霉,米曲霉,梨头霉和乳酸菌作用,生成乳酸,琥珀酸和有机酸,使酒母在较
6、短时间就形成PH4.0一4.5的酸性环境,从而发挥驯育酵母及筛迭,淘汰微生物的作用。使淋饭酒母仍能做到纯粹培养,为喂饭黄酒奠定了安全发酵保证。 3.3嘉兴淋饭酒母含微生物种类丰富,微生物的来源主要从酒药中接入,少量从活化水,容器和工具中进入。从现有研究分析得知,主要含有根霉,毛霉,曲霉,念珠霉,梨头霉,细菌等菌落；酵母菌有（酒精酵母,果酒酵母,生香酵母等）。以上酵母菌,霉菌,细菌等微生物在米饭培养中生成糖,酒精,乳酸为主的有机酸和其它芳香化合物,从而在后期喂饭黄酒中赋予成品黄酒芳香浓醇的风味。 3.4嘉兴淋饭酒母具有较强的繁殖能力和发酵产率。在传统喂饭黄酒发酵醪中可测出的酵母数高达6.5一8.
7、5亿个/ml,发酵后期酒精度可达到18.0%以上。因此抗酒精能力强和耐酸,耐高浓度及渗透压。 3.5淋饭酒母的微生物酶系主要含有酒化酶,脂化酶,淀粉酶,蛋白酶,纤维素酶等，并且酶活性强,发酵完全彻底。酿成的嘉兴喂饭黄酒原料出品率达到275%一280%（以干型黄酒酒精度15%计算）而且保留传统黄酒应有独特风味。 4.淋饭酒母制作工艺流程：粳米筛选浸米（水温1520,时间24h）蒸饭（温度100,时间35min,闷15min）吃水（水温4550）打饭拌匀米饭复蒸（温度100,时间15min,闷10min）回淋沥干米饭入缸酒药拌饭（饭温30一32）搭窝保温培养（饭温27一28）来甜酿液（酿温32一3
8、3,时间45h左右）冲酿放水（温度20以下）稀酿淋饭酒母 5.制淋饭酒母采用原料大米和酒药的质量要求 5.1粳米,选用粒形较阔,呈椭圆形,透明度高的标二粳米为制淋饭酒母。要求米香好,淀粉含量高,蛋白质,脂肪适中。 5.2酒药,感观要求表面呈粉白色,质地松脆,曲块中心应有足够的菌丝生长,具有酒药特有的米香。含糖化力和发酵力均较高,有一定的酵母数,酸度较低。 理化:水分12%以下,淀粉酶活力 90单位,发酵率 60%,酵母细胞数2.0亿/g,酸度0.4%。 目前,对传统酒药尚无统一的国家质量标准,因此在制淋饭酒母前,都先进行小型糖化发酵试验,最后对搭窝来酿的糖化发酵液糖度,酒精度,酸度和酵母数进行
9、化验分析,并结合感官实际情况判断酒药的质量优劣和性能。以便在黄酒大生产中采取相应措施和调正。 6.制淋饭酒母工艺操作要求 6.1配料,制备淋饭酒母常以每缸投料米量为基准,根据喂饭工艺配料要求不同有50kg和60kg两种。酒药用量为原料米的0.40一0,50%,控制饭水总重量比为原料米量350%左右。 6.2浸米,浸米的目的是让米粒吸水膨胀,淀粉颗粒的巨大分子链由于水化作用而展开,颗粒间得以疏松,为蒸饭时淀粉的糊化创造条件。浸米的容器为洁净的陶缸中加入清水,将米倾入,水量超过米面5一6cm为好,浸渍时间可根椐米质和水温不同控制在24一36h,然后捞出冲洗,淋净余水。 6.3蒸煮,经浸渍冲洗后的米
10、粒因吸收水分而膨胀,但还没有使淀粉颗粒之间分开,淀粉粒内部分子之间仍保持紧蜜结合的状态,淀粉酶难以对其作用。蒸煮的作用,就是通过加热膨化,使细胞组织破裂,水分渗入淀粉颗粒内部,削弱分子之间的联系,晶体结构解体,形成不致密的网状组织,直链淀粉和分支短的支链淀粉能自由地溶解于水溶液中,从而使淀粉酶易作用于淀粉进行水解和酵母菌的培养,繁殖,发酵,同时也起到杀菌作用。 对粳米蒸煮要求达到饭粒松软,熟而不糊,均匀一致,外硬内软,内无白心。 6.4淋饭泠却,淋饭泠却就是用清洁的泠水从米饭上面至上而下浇淋使米饭降温。目的是迅速降低饭温,达到入缸培养微生物要求,并适当增加米饭含水量,使米饭表面光滑,颗粒间相互
11、分离和通气,有利于拌入酒药和搭窝操作。同时酒药中的根霉属于好气菌,培养繁殖需要空气和湿润的饭粒。淋后饭温一般要求掌握在31左右。 6.5落缸搭窝,投料时,将沥去余水的米饭倒入洁净的缸内,先把饭团捏碎,再撒入酒药与米饭拌匀,并搭成凹形窝,缸底的窝口直径约15cm,窝内米饭要搭得疏松些,以不倒为度。搭窝的目的是增加米饭与空气的接触面积,以利于好气性的糖化菌繁殖；同时因有窝的形成,便于检查糖液的积累和酵母菌生长,培养,繁殖,发酵等情况。窝搭好后,再往米饭上面撒上一些酒药粉,然后加草盖保温。米饭搭窝后的温度一般控制在26一28,在寒冷的气候可高至32一30。 6.6保温培养,米饭搭窝后应及时做好保温工
12、作。酒药中的糖化菌,酵母菌在米饭适宜温度,湿度下迅速生长繁殖。根霉菌,毛霉菌,曲霉菌等糖化菌类分泌淀粉酶将淀粉分解成麦芽糖,葡萄糖,使窝内逐渐积聚甜酿液,此时酵母菌得到营养和氧气,也进行繁殖。同时由于根霉,毛霉分解产生乳酸,延胡索酸等酸内物质,使酿窝甜酿液的PH维持在3.5左右,有力地控制了产酸细菌的侵袭。纯化了强壮的酵母菌,使整个糖化过程处于稳定状态。大约经18一22h开始升温,到32一38h饭面上白色霉菌丝滋生,相互粘结在一起,饭粒表面均软化,缸中发出特有酒酿香和带有二氧化碳轻微刺鼻气息,此时窝中出现酿液,来酿温度28一30,酒精度0.5%,糖度20一22%,酸度0.18一0.20%,来酿
13、前应翻动一次草盖,可以换进一些新鲜空气,排出二氧化碳。以后根据每缸来甜酿液的进度和品温,逐渐移掉草盖。约经48一50h,当窝内溢满甜酿液时,酵母气泡不断从酿窝底层连续不断翻上,形成小气泡。此时感官品尝,色呈浊白色,有正常的酒酿香,口味醇厚带甜,酸味爽适,微有甜鲜味。以下是酒酿酵母翻缸放水前的糖、酒、酸的动态情况： 表2 酒酿淋饭酵母糖,酒,酸的分析指标 项 目酒度%糖度g/100ml酸度g/100ml酵母数亿个/ml酿温（）酒酿淋饭酵母5.0一6,026一281.45一0.501.0一1.232一334.5一5.526.5一290.40一0.460.80一0.8531一32 6.7翻缸放水,此
14、时酒酿中的酵母由于处于这种高浓度, 高渗透压,低PH的环境下,细胞浓度仅在0.8一1.2个/亿ml左右, 镜检基本不见杂菌。这时酿窝已成熟,可以及时加水冲酿,使酒醅由半固态转为液态状态,甜酿液浓度得以稀释,渗透压降低, 但醪液PH值仍能维持在4.0以下,并补充新鲜溶解氧,强化了糖化分解能力。同时这一环镜的变化,促使酵母菌在较低温度下得到驯养,培育,迅速繁殖和扩培。经24h以后, 酵母浓度仍可升至到0.85一1.0亿个/ml,糖化和发酵作用得到进一步加强。加水冲缸后的酿温在16一18,经24h后酿温上升到23一24。说明酵母得到生长,繁殖和扩培并逐步开始酒精发酵。见表3所示： 表3 翻酿冲水后至
15、喂饭前淋饭酒母检测指标项 目酒度%糖度g/100ml酸度g/100ml酵母数亿个/ml酿温（）翻缸冲水后淋饭酒母2.2一2.310一11.00.25一0.260.45一0.5016一18喂饭前淋饭酒母2.5一3.08.0一9.00.30一0.320.85一0.9622一25经冲酿放水略经24小时,淋饭酒母己经形成,就可以用来酿制喂饭黄酒。7.制淋饭酒母需掌握的关健点要酿好质量优良的淋饭酒母除重视大米,酒药外,还必须在制淋饭酒母工艺过程中掌握以下操作要点：7.1对粳米原料制淋饭酒母,在蒸煮米饭中应采用“双蒸双淋”操作法。使米饭达到外硬内软,内无白心,疏松不糊,透而不烂,均匀一致的要求。如果饭蒸的
16、不透,在制淋饭酒母时容易使淀粉糖化不能完全,而且还易导致杂菌侵入,使酒母酸度升高。7.2蒸煮以后经水淋后的米饭在入缸拌药之前应尽量沥干余水,否者,根霉和米曲霉等糖化菌速度减慢,糖化发酵力变差,酿窝甜液浑浊,酸度上升,从而抑制酵母正常的繁殖和生长,使淋饭酒母质量不理想。7.3掌握和调正米饭冲淋的温度和控制好合适的米饭落缸温度30一32,培养温度28一30范围里,如果发现温度上升要及时移动草盖降温。保证微生物有益糖化,酵母菌的正常繁殖培养温度。7.4对制备淋饭酒母使用的陶缸要洗刷干净,并用沸水和石灰水泡洗。用时再用沸水冲泡一次,达到消毒灭菌的目的。8.嘉兴淋饭酒母生化培养中的控制和措施8.1对制成
17、的淋饭酒母一般来说：酿液清,酒精含量低,酸度低时,酿液中淀粉酶活性就高。反之活性低。因此,淀粉酶活性要求看,要酿液清,酒精含量低,糖度高,酸度低的较好；但要求酵母细胞数多,发酵力强时,一般酿液品温较高,酿液表面泡沫多,呈乳白色,酒精含量,酸度也较高。对淋饭酒毋使用从经验看,秋酿生产喂饭黄酒酒醪发酵采用前者嫩酒母；冬酿生产喂饭发酵采用后者老酒母。8.2酿缸中甜液酵母的浓度因各种原因而波动于0.1一1.5亿个/ml,酒药中酵母数的多少，酒药接种量的高低,米饭蒸煮的含水量以及糖掖浓度和温度高低等都会影响淋饭酒母酵母细胞浓度的变化。如酿液酵母数过少,酒精含量偏低,糖分浓度高,为了保证淋饭酒母一定的数量
18、, 可在翻缸放水前一小时及时补加少量黄酒活性干酵母来弥补,是酿液酵母浓度控制在1.0亿个/ml左右为好。从而确保喂饭后黄酒正常持续的发酵进程顺利完成。8.3其次, 酒母酿缸培养时间短的,酵母繁殖能力强,培养时间长的,酵母比较老,繁殖能力相对减弱。培养时间过长,还会使酵母有氧呼吸所消耗的糖分增加,而降低原料出酒率。可考虑把传统的搭窝2.5d一3d, 待甜酿液满到缸面时放水转入稀酿主发酵,改变成搭窝30h一35h后就放水转入主发酵, 以减少有氧糖代谢比例,降低糖分较多消耗,从而提高出酒率。总之,嘉兴淋饭酒母制作过程微生物（酵母,霉菌,细菌）的变化复杂,其生理，生化过程更加复杂多变,同时大米质量,酒
19、药的优劣,蒸煮好坏,操作技艺,气候变化,米饭含水量,温度控制,培养时间长短,都会影响到淋饭酒母淀粉活性的强弱和酵母细胞数和有益乳酸菌的多少,需要我们不断总结经验,加以深化研究和完善来满足淋饭酒母所用酵母菌,霉菌,乳酸菌的特性。从而保证喂饭黄酒发酵酒醪正常生产要求和优良的风味。主要参考书1, 胡文浪编著 黄酒工艺学 中国轻工业出版社（m）1998（8 ）一版2, 顾国贤主编 酿造酒工艺学 中国轻工业出版社（m）1996（12）二版3, 汪建国 试论嘉兴喂饭黄酒的传统酿酒技艺（j）中国黄酒 2004（2）40一424, 汪建国 嘉兴喂饭酒传统工艺剖析（j） 中国酿造 2000（2）40一425毛青
20、钟、陈高鹏 传统黄酒淋饭酒母制作过程微生物变化初探（j） 中国黄酒2004（2）14一18Editors note: Judson Jones is a meteorologist, journalist and photographer. He has freelanced with CNN for four years, covering severe weather from tornadoes to typhoons. Follow him on Twitter: jnjonesjr (CNN) - I will always wonder what it was like to hu
21、ddle around a shortwave radio and through the crackling static from space hear the faint beeps of the worlds first satellite - Sputnik. I also missed watching Neil Armstrong step foot on the moon and the first space shuttle take off for the stars. Those events were way before my time.As a kid, I was
22、 fascinated with what goes on in the sky, and when NASA pulled the plug on the shuttle program I was heartbroken. Yet the privatized space race has renewed my childhood dreams to reach for the stars.As a meteorologist, Ive still seen many important weather and space events, but right now, if you wer
23、e sitting next to me, youd hear my foot tapping rapidly under my desk. Im anxious for the next one: a space capsule hanging from a crane in the New Mexico desert.Its like the set for a George Lucas movie floating to the edge of space.You and I will have the chance to watch a man take a leap into an
24、unimaginable free fall from the edge of space - live.The (lack of) air up there Watch man jump from 96,000 feet Tuesday, I sat at work glued to the live stream of the Red Bull Stratos Mission. I watched the balloons positioned at different altitudes in the sky to test the winds, knowing that if they
25、 would just line up in a vertical straight line we would be go for launch.I feel this mission was created for me because I am also a journalist and a photographer, but above all I live for taking a leap of faith - the feeling of pushing the envelope into uncharted territory.The guy who is going to d
26、o this, Felix Baumgartner, must have that same feeling, at a level I will never reach. However, it did not stop me from feeling his pain when a gust of swirling wind kicked up and twisted the partially filled balloon that would take him to the upper end of our atmosphere. As soon as the 40-acre ball
27、oon, with skin no thicker than a dry cleaning bag, scraped the ground I knew it was over.How claustrophobia almost grounded supersonic skydiverWith each twist, you could see the wrinkles of disappointment on the face of the current record holder and capcom (capsule communications), Col. Joe Kittinge
28、r. He hung his head low in mission control as he told Baumgartner the disappointing news: Mission aborted.The supersonic descent could happen as early as Sunday.The weather plays an important role in this mission. Starting at the ground, conditions have to be very calm - winds less than 2 mph, with
29、no precipitation or humidity and limited cloud cover. The balloon, with capsule attached, will move through the lower level of the atmosphere (the troposphere) where our day-to-day weather lives. It will climb higher than the tip of Mount Everest (5.5 miles/8.85 kilometers), drifting even higher tha
30、n the cruising altitude of commercial airliners (5.6 miles/9.17 kilometers) and into the stratosphere. As he crosses the boundary layer (called the tropopause), he can expect a lot of turbulence.The balloon will slowly drift to the edge of space at 120,000 feet (22.7 miles/36.53 kilometers). Here, F
31、earless Felix will unclip. He will roll back the door.Then, I would assume, he will slowly step out onto something resembling an Olympic diving platform.Below, the Earth becomes the concrete bottom of a swimming pool that he wants to land on, but not too hard. Still, hell be traveling fast, so despi
32、te the distance, it will not be like diving into the deep end of a pool. It will be like he is diving into the shallow end.Skydiver preps for the big jumpWhen he jumps, he is expected to reach the speed of sound - 690 mph (1,110 kph) - in less than 40 seconds. Like hitting the top of the water, he w
33、ill begin to slow as he approaches the more dense air closer to Earth. But this will not be enough to stop him completely.If he goes too fast or spins out of control, he has a stabilization parachute that can be deployed to slow him down. His team hopes its not needed. Instead, he plans to deploy hi
34、s 270-square-foot (25-square-meter) main chute at an altitude of around 5,000 feet (1,524 meters).In order to deploy this chute successfully, he will have to slow to 172 mph (277 kph). He will have a reserve parachute that will open automatically if he loses consciousness at mach speeds.Even if ever
35、ything goes as planned, it wont. Baumgartner still will free fall at a speed that would cause you and me to pass out, and no parachute is guaranteed to work higher than 25,000 feet (7,620 meters).It might not be the moon, but Kittinger free fell from 102,800 feet in 1960 - at the dawn of an infamous space race that captured the hearts of many. Baumgartner will attempt to break that record, a feat that boggles the mind. This is one of those monumental moments I will always remember, because there is no way Id miss this.
