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1、DearSupplier,Wearepleasedtoannouncethere-launchingofthenewadidasGroupColorManual.Thismanualhasbeenrevisedtotakeintoconsiderationbothrecentadvancesincolortechnologyandfuturedevelopmentsincolormanagementthatweforeseeinthenexttwotofiveyears.ThismanualcontainsCOlOrSPeCifiCatiOnSforallfabricsandgarmentst
2、hataresuppliedtotheadidasGroup.ThesestandardsandprocesseshavebeendevelopedtoensurethatadidasGroupmerchandiserepresentsourcommitmenttohighqualityforourcustomerswhilstatthesametime,furtherimprovingourproductdevelopmentleadtimes.UponacceptinganorderfromadidasGroupyouareacknowledgingtomeetthecolorspecif
3、icationsasstatedinthismanual.Shouldyouhaveanyquestionsregardingthecontentsofthismanualypleasecontactthefollowing：IrisBakker-adidasGroup-HQHerzogenaurach+49-9132-845987iris.bakkeradidas.deChristineCollins-adidasGroup-Portland+1-971-234-4265christine.collinsadidasusAcknowledgementofReceiptfor2006adida
4、sGroupColorManualPleasesignbelowandreturnthispagetotheadidasGroupofficeinyourregionBysigningyouareacknowledgingreceipt&compliancetothismanualSupplierName：(Pleaseprint)RecipientsName：(Pleaseprint)Signature：DateofReceipt：ASia-PaCifiCDeanLiou-AdidasSourcingLtd-MPCTaipei5/F99sec.2Jen-aiRoadTaipei,Taiwan
5、10062R.O.C.Email：dean.liou(三)adidas.hkPhone：+886-2-23574285NorthandSoUthAmeriCaPaulaTurgeon-adidasInternational5055NorthGreeleyAvenuePortland,OR97217USAEmail：paula.turgeonadidasusPhone：+971-234-4265EUroPeDeryaCetin-adidasSourcingLtd-MPCIstanbulEskiBuyukdereCad.ParkPlazaNo.2234398MaslakzIstanbul-Turk
6、eyEmail：derya.cetinadidas.trPhone：+90-212-3295533TableofContentsPageSeetiOnIntroductionII.T2&TiInstrument,Software&Accreditation5-6RequirementsIII.ColorStandards7-IV.EvaluationofColorAssessors9V.LightingCabinet10-11VI.InstrumentalColorMeasurementProcedures：12-14SpectrophotometerA. SpectrophotometerS
7、ettingsB. SpectrophotometerCalibrationC. SpectrophotometerMeasurementTechniqueVII.ApprovalViewingProcedureA. NumericalTolerancesB. PhysicalSampleViewingRequirements15-16VIII.Metamerism17IX.ImportantNotetotheSupplyBase18X.adidasGroupGlobalCoIorTooIsForms19-21XI.ColorContinuity22XII.BasicCoIorTheory23
8、-32I. INTRODUcnONWezatadidasGroupvaluemaintainingahighlevelofqualityinourproductsandonlybyensuringthatourprocessesareaccuratelycommunicated,ourmethodsdocumentedandourspecificationsdefined,thisgoalwillbemet.Itisourobjectivetoclearlycommunicateourexpectationsandparameterstooursupplybase.Wewill,onacont
9、inuousbase,evaluateandadoptourprocessesinordertoimproveproductquality.Wevalueourrelationshipswithoursupplybaseandrealizethatbyworkingtogetherwecanaccomplishourmutualgoalofprovidingqualityproductsandservicestoourcustomers.Aswebetterdefineourexpectations,weseektoestablishforoursuppliersaworkingrelatio
10、nshipwhereperformanceisrewardedandtrustisestablished.ItistheadidasGroupPolicytocommunicatecolorandspecifycolorstandardsusingthe31pointspectraldatameasurementsystemandtocontrolcolorusingtheCMC2:1colorequationtogetherwiththeguidelinesandprocedurescontainedherein.Theinstrumentalspectraldatameasurementp
11、rocessworksonnumericaldataandtolerances,resultinginmoreefficientandobjectivecolordecisionsascomparedtovisualassessmentalone.adidasGroupofficesareequippedwithhighqualityDatacolorSF600+CTandSF600XSpectrophotometersandDatacolorTools,Envision&Tracksoftwareforcolormeasurement,evaluation,trackingandcommun
12、ication.Allcolorstandardsandsupplierssubmitsaremeasuredandstoredelectronicallyandsupplierperformancereportsaregeneratedtoprovideavarietyofdataincludingqualityoffirstsubmissions；approvalpercentagesandturntimes.ThemaingoaloftheadidasGroupColorManualincludesignificantlydecreasingthenumbersofcolorsubmis
13、sionsreceivedfromthesupplybasepriortoapprovalandreducingthetimeandcostassociatedwiththecolorprocess.Tosupportthisgoalwerequiresupplieraccreditationtohelpensureongoingaccuracyandconsistencyofcolorsubmissions.II. T2&TIINSTRUMENT,SOFTWARE&ACCREDrrATloNREQUIREMENTSTier2Suppliers(DyeMills)mustbeequippedw
14、ithbelowinstruments&softwareandmustensurethefollowingrequirements： ADatacolorSF600+CTorSF600XorDatacolor600Spectrophotometer.TheonlyotherspectrophotometermodelsacceptabletoadidasGroup(forsuppliersalreadyeuiDDedwithalternativehardware)aretheGretagMacbethCE7000A&C0l0ri7andtheMinolta3700D. DatacolorCol
15、ortoolsQCsoftwareVersion3.12orhigher,orDatacoIorTooIsQCsoftwareVersion1.0orhigher DatacolorTracksoftware Anofficiallyapprovedlightingcabinet(seepage10)locatedinadarkroomorinacurtainedoffarea CabinetsneedtobefittedwithD65ArtificialDaylight,TL84GeneralStoreLight(Fn)andUVUltraviolet 1.ighttubesmustbere
16、placedevery2zooohoursor6months,whicheverissooner InteriorsurfaceofthelightingcabinetmustbepaintedinaneutralgreycolorEmulsionGrey5574oralternativelyEmulsionGreyN5 Anannualcalibration,maintenanceandcertificationofrequiredinstrumentsfromthemanufacturerorofficiallyapprovedservicepartnerismandatoryandcon
17、tinuousservicehistorymustbemaintained SuitablytrainedpersonnelwhounderstandboththeinstrumentalspectraldatameasurementprocessrequirementsandthevisualassessmentofadidasGroupasdocumentedwithinthismanual,whohavepassedtheFarnsworth-MunsellColorDiscriminationTest(score24orless)andwhohavebeenaccreditedinac
18、cordancewithDatacolorA2C2AccreditationLevel2.TienSuppliers(GarmentMakers)mustbeequippedwithaminimumofbelowinstrumentsandmustensurethefollowingrequirements： Anofficiallyapprovedlightingcabinet(seepage10)locatedinadarkroomorinacurtainedoffarea CabinetsneedtobefittedwithD65ArtificialDaylightzTL84Genera
19、lStoreLight(Fn)andUVUltraviolet 1.ighttubesmustbereplacedevery2,000hoursor6months,whicheverissooner InteriorsurfaceofthelightingcabinetmustbepaintedinaneutralgreycolorEmulsionGrey5574oralternativelyEmulsionGreyN5 Anannualcalibration；maintenanceandcertificationofrequiredinstrumentsfromthemanufacturer
20、orofficiallyapprovedservicepartnerismandatoryandcontinuousservicehistorymustbemaintained Suitablytrainedpersonnelwhounderstandthevisualassessment(andpossiblytheinstrumentalspectraldatameasurementprocessrequirements)ofadidasGroupasdocumentedwithinthismanual,whohavepassedtheFarnsworth-MunsellColorDisc
21、riminationTest(score24orless)andwhohavebeenaccreditedinaccordancewithDatacolorAiCiAccreditationLevel1.HlcolorstandardsAsetofColorStandards(adidasConstants&VariablesandReebokFoundation&Seasonal)arepurchasedbyoursupplybaseeachseason.StartingwiththenewSpringSummer2021season(SSo8),theColorStandardswillc
22、ontainboththe31pointspectraldataassuppliedthroughthemasterstandardQTXFileandpublishedontheDystarE-dyesWebsiteandafabriccolorstandardswatch.AuthorizationforaccesstotheDystarE-dyesWebsiteneedstobegrantedandapprovedbyadidasGroupHerzoHQ-HeadofGlobalMaterialQualityApparel.TheadidasGroupColorStandardsared
23、evelopedtoofferaprecisespecificationofthetargetcolorandhavethereforebeeninvestigatedonachievability.However,theremightstillbespecificcasesthatitisphysicallynoteasytoeitherachievetherequiredcolorwithexistingdyetechnologies,orachievetherequiredcolorandsimultaneouslycomplywithadidasGroupstandardsofligh
24、tandwashfastness.Inordertosupportoursupplybase,anin-depthinvestigationduringthedevelopmentofeachnewadidasGroupcolorpalettehasbeenmadeinordertodefinedepthofshade&colorfastnessachievability.Asuccessfulmatchisbasedontherecommended(notcompulsory)dyeingrecipefromDyStarzandotheralternaterecipesshouldbecon
25、sideredtoachievethemostcommerciallyacceptablematchtothecolorstandardtakingintoaccountbothfastnessperformanceandmetamerism.ForTier2SuppliersitismandatorythatthespectraldataisusedasthemasterstandardthroughouttheentiremanufacturingprocessasitisagainstthisstandardthatallcolorsubmissionsatadidasGrouparee
26、valuated.Tier2SupplierswithacomputerizedrecipepredictionandQCsystemshouldimportthespectraldataelectronicallyfromthesuppliedQTXfile.Thedatasuppliedshouldthenbeverifiedviathechecksumfigureandstoredpermanentlywithinthesoftware.TheadidasGroupphysicalmasterstandardisforvisualevaluationandcomparisonpurpos
27、esonly,andundernocircumstances,shoulditbere-measuredbytheTier2supplier.Tier1SuppliersshouldalwaysusetheadidasGroupphysicalmasterstandardastheirprimaryreferenceforvisualcolorassessmentthroughouttheentireproductdevelopmentprocess,notthefirstapprovedbulksubmission.GeneralReqUirememSOnadidasGrOUPCOlOrSt
28、andardSAllpartiesinvolvedinthecolorapprovalprocessmustpurchaseacompletemasteradidasGroupColorStandard(adidasConstants&VariablesandReebokFoundation&Seasonal)throughtheadidasGroupColor&TrendTeams.ThesemasterstandardsshouldSOtbeCUtorredistributed.Thestandardsshouldbestoredinadryandcleanenvironmentandat
29、notimeleftexposedtodirectsunlightorinanyotherareawheresoilingordamagecanoccur.MEVALUATlONOFCOLORASSESSoRSAlladidasGroup&adidasGroupSupplyBaseColorAssessorsmusthavecolordiscriminationskillsrepresentedbyascoreof24orlessusingtheFarnsworth-Munsell100HueTest.Farnsworth-MunsellooHueTestThetestconsistsofas
30、etoffourtrayscontaining85removablecoloredcapswithsubtledifferencesinhue.Thesubjectmustplacethecolorcapsinhueorder.Farnsworth-Munsell100HueTestTheSCOringSyStemisasfollows:0-16Superiordiscriminationofcolor20-100Averagediscriminationofcolor100andaboveLowdiscriminationofcolorGenerally,approximately68%of
31、thepopulationachievesanaveragediscriminationrating.16%havesuperiordiscriminationand16%havelow.WithintheadidasGroup&adidasGroupSupplyBase；onlypeopleswhoaregradedbyaFarnsworth-Munsell100HueTestscoreof24orlessareallowedtoassesscolors.V.LIGHTINGCABINETThefollowinglightingcabinetsareadidasGroupapproved：V
32、erivideCAC6ozCAC120orCAC150.DatacolorCMB2028/2540GretagMacbethSpectralight111orJudge11AtlasVarioluxThefollowingLightingCabinetinstructions&requirementsareobligatory： InteriorsurfaceofthelightingcabinetmustbepaintedinaneutralgreycolorEmulsionGrey5574oralternativelyEmulsionGreyN5. Theinteriorsurfaceof
33、thecabinetshouldberepaintedonceayear. 1.ightingcabinetsarerequiredtobefittedwiththefollowinglamps：D65,TL84(Fn)andV. Itisrequiredthatonlylampssuppliedbytheoriginalmanufacturerofthelightingcabinetbeusedandtheseshouldbereplacedonatimelybasisaccordingtotheusersmanual,maximumevery6monthsorevery2z000hours
34、. Pleaseensurethecabinetandtubesarekeptcleanandfreefromdust. TheUVlampshouldnotbeonwhenassessingcolor. TheUVlampisusedforassessingtheeffectoffluorescentwhiteningagents(FWAzs). Thelightcabinetshouldbeserviced&calibratedonanannualbasisandaservicelogkeptforinspection.D65istheprimarylightsourceandTL84(F
35、n)isthesecondarylightsourceforallinstrumentalandvisualcolorevaluationsatadidasGroup.LightSourceUseForRequiredResultPrimaryLightSourceD65ArtificialDaylightAllswatchesVerygood&closestmatchSecondaryLightSourceTL84(Fn)GeneralStoreLightAllswatches,tocheckformetamerismVerygood&closestmatchReferenceUltravi
36、olet(UV)ToCheckforopticalbrighteners/fluorescentdyesDonotuseformatchingVUNSTRUMENTALCOLORMEASUREMENTPRoCEDURES:SPEcrRoPHoTOMETERadidasGroupishighlyrecommendingandmovingtowardselectroniccommunicationbyusinginstrumentalcolormeasurementtoaddsupportandquantitativevaliditytothecolorassessmentprocess.Reli
37、ablecolormeasurementprovidesthebasisforcolorapprovalsbynumericaltolerance-aprocesswhichismoreefficientandcompletelyobjectivewhencomparedtovisualassessmentalone.adidasofficesareequippedwithhighqualityinstruments&software(DatacolorToolszEnvision&Track)forcolormeasurement.Colorimetricdataarecalculateda
38、ndarchivedusingthelatestcolordifferenceandtolerancemethods.Allsuppliersubmissionsaremeasuredandstoredelectronicallyforperiodicreporting.Historicalreportsaregeneratedwhichprovideeachdivisionwithinadidaswithsupplierperformancesummaries.Thequalityoffirstsubmissionmatches,approvalpercentages,andturnarou
39、ndtimesonlabdipsareamongthemanydatawhichareavailable.A. SpectrophotometerSettingsThespectrophotometershouldbelocatedinacleanandconditionedenvironmentwithaconstanttemperatureof20degreesC+/-2degreesandaconstanthumidityof65%+/-2withoutcondensation.Thespectrophotometershouldalsoundergoanannualcalibratio
40、n,maintenance&certificationfromthemanufacturerorofficiallyapprovedservicepartner.B. SpectrophotometerCalibrationInstrumentalcolormeasurementwithinadidasGroupisperformedusingtheDatacolorSpectraflash6oo+CT/SF6ooXorDatacolor6oospectrophotometer+Datacolor6oo.Inordertoensurecompliance,thefollowingsystemc
41、alibrationconfigurationmustbeused：ColorDifferenceCMC(2:1)SpecularGlossIncluded(SCI)UVcomponentIncluded(100%UV)IlluminantsPrimary:D65Secondary:TL84Observer10degreeApertureLAVC1JiIihmfinnRvrprvrRhnraC. SpectrophotometerMeasurementTechniqueSuppliersmustconductcolormeasurementswhichcomplywiththosebeingd
42、onebyadidasGroup.Themannerinwhichsamplesaremeasuredgreatlyinfluencesthecolorimetricoutput.ThefollowingmethodhasbeendevelopedatadidasGroupandfoundtobehighlyreproducible.ConditioningofthesamplespriortomeasurementBeforemeasurementandvisualassessment,allfabricswatchesmustbeconditionedforatleast4hoursina
43、natmosphereof65%+/-2%relativehumidity(noncondensing),atatemperatureof20degreesC+/-2degreesCandexposedtoambientlight.Thiscanbedoneinacontrolledlaboratoryenvironmentbutisbestachievedbyplacingthesamplestobemeasuredinaconditioningcabinet.SamplesmustbeconditionedfromadrystateTndmeasuredimmediatelyafterre
44、movalfromthecabinet,adidashaveapprovedtheDatacolorConditionerunitwhichprovidesanacceleratedsampleconditioningtimeofapproximately10minutestogetherwithpreciseandconsistentparametercontrols,adidasalsoapprovestheVindonScientificconditioningcabinet.SpectrophotometersamplepresentationandhandlingAllfabrics
45、watchesaretobefoldedinsufficientnumberoflayers(aminimumoffourlayers)topreventtransmissionoflight.Theappropriatenumberoffoldscanbecheckedbymeasuringthefabricwiththeblacktileandthenwiththewhitetilebehindthesample.Thereadingsshouldbethesame.Ifthereadingsdiffer,thenumberoflayersmustbeincreasedandthemeas
46、urementsrepeated.SpectrophotometerMeasurementandOrientationofSamplesThesamplemustbesmoothandwithoutcreasesandthecommercialfacealwaysmeasured.Thesampleshouldnotprotrudeintothemeasuringsphereofthespectrophotometer.Optimumresultsareobtainedbytakingfourreadsondifferentareasofthefabric,andalsorotatingthe
47、fabric900betweeneachread.Theorientationwithrespecttothetextureoftheswatchshouldresultinmeasurementstakenatthe90180270；and3600(oroo).Thefourreadsareautomaticallyaveragedbythesoftwareandstored.IndicatesribdirectionVII.APPROVALVlEWlNGPRoCEDUREFirStAPPrOValReferenCeForeachlab-dipand/orbulksubmission,the
48、spectrophotometerreadingsshouldbecomparedagainstthespectraldataassuppliedthroughthemasterstandardQTXfileandonlyreadingswithinthenumericaltolerancesareacceptedasthefirstapprovalreference.SeeOndAPPrOValReferenCePhysicalsamplesforsubmissionmustasasecondapprovalreferencepassvisuallyagainstthecolormasterstandardforboththeD65andTL84illuminantsandshouldnotexhibitsignificantmetamerism.A.NumericalTolerancesTypeofSampleBeingSubmittedCMC
